Author: "gingy1raylynn" <gingy1@...> Time: Tue Jan 6, 2004 3:30 am PST Link
All,
Quick question about countersinking. I discovered that you do not
need to press very hard to get the countersink to work, but proir to
this, I learned that by pressing too hard, one can create unwanted
scratches in the material. The material being removed acted as an
abrasive and scratched the surrounding aluminum about the hole.
Please see this web page,
http://bellsouthpwp.net/g/i/gingy1/MistakePictures.htm
,though the photo is not too good. Can these fairly deep scrtaches
be buffed out with Scotchbrite prior to priming, and Has anyone else
had this problem?
Thanks,
Eric
Author: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@...> Time: Tue Jan 6, 2004 9:37 am PST Link
>All,
>
>Quick question about countersinking. I discovered that you do not
>need to press very hard to get the countersink to work, but proir to
>this, I learned that by pressing too hard, one can create unwanted
>scratches in the material. The material being removed acted as an
>abrasive and scratched the surrounding aluminum about the hole.
>Please see this web page,
>http://bellsouthpwp.net/g/i/gingy1/MistakePictures.htm
>
>,though the photo is not too good. Can these fairly deep scrtaches
>be buffed out with Scotchbrite prior to priming, and Has anyone else
>had this problem?
>
>Thanks,
>Eric
Don't worry about it. Prime it, and move on. Just build the plane. (Van's
trademark reply to most new builder concerns...which is pretty much right
on!)
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD 350+ hrs.
RV10 51
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Author: Sean and Bedford Lally <sean@...> Time: Tue Jan 6, 2004 9:39 am PST Link
The way it looks to me I'd say it won't be an issue after scotchbrite
before priming.
At 03:59 AM 1/6/2004 +0000, you wrote:
>All,
>
>Quick question about countersinking. I discovered that you do not
>need to press very hard to get the countersink to work, but proir to
>this, I learned that by pressing too hard, one can create unwanted
>scratches in the material. The material being removed acted as an
>abrasive and scratched the surrounding aluminum about the hole.
>Please see this web page,
>http://bellsouthpwp.net/g/i/gingy1/MistakePictures.htm
>
>,though the photo is not too good. Can these fairly deep scrtaches
>be buffed out with Scotchbrite prior to priming, and Has anyone else
>had this problem?
>
>Thanks,
>Eric
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Author: "geraldmorrissey" <geraldmorrissey@...> Time: Tue Jan 6, 2004 1:46 pm PST Link
One thing you might try is just a taste of Bolube on the cutter
flutes. Don't use too much or the chips will collect inside the
countersink cage. Use an airgun to blow them out. I use that stuff
for everything. Your bits and cutters will last longer too. Its the
best product to come out of Boing since the 727. Remember to primer
your holes and AL fasteners (sorry, I'm anal about that).
Happy Building
Gerry
Author: "jaybrinkmeyer" <jaybrinkmeyer@...> Time: Tue Jan 6, 2004 6:05 pm PST Link
You really prime your holes and fasteners? I've been roughing out,
buffing and priming first and then touch-up as needed after
deburring/riveting. Saves on buffing out scratches. Worse yet, I'm
using AFS water-based primer (sacrilege!).
Enough trival drivel... where does one get "Bolube"?
Jay
--- In RV10@yahoogroups.com, "geraldmorrissey"
<geraldmorrissey@y...> wrote:
> One thing you might try is just a taste of Bolube on the cutter
> flutes. Don't use too much or the chips will collect inside the
> countersink cage. Use an airgun to blow them out. I use that stuff
> for everything. Your bits and cutters will last longer too. Its
the
> best product to come out of Boing since the 727. Remember to
primer
> your holes and AL fasteners (sorry, I'm anal about that).
> Happy Building
> Gerry
Author: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@...> Time: Tue Jan 6, 2004 6:26 pm PST Link
> Enough trival drivel... where does one get "Bolube"?
http://checkoway.com/url/?s=8a6c91d9
Cleaveland Tool has it, among other vendors out there. They're only 3 bucks
a tube...order 2 or 3 tubes while you're at it and save on shipping later.
8^)
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
Author: "geraldmorrissey" <geraldmorrissey@...> Time: Wed Jan 7, 2004 3:23 pm PST Link
Yes I do primer my AL fasteners and holes. The way I was instructed
years ago when I was doing this stuff for a living was as follows,
1) make up a small bottle of primer, mix well and put some masking
tape across the top, cover the top completely. 2) put a small c clamp
around the bottle or find some other way to keep the bottle from
moving around. 3) get some long handled Q tips, medical supply stores
have them. 4) punch a small hole in the top of the bottle so that you
can get the Q tip in and is tight enough to wipe off the excess as
you withdraw the Q tip. 6) Hold the gun in one hand, dab a little
primer in the hole with the other, put the Q tip back in the bottle,
grab a rivet, insert in the hole, twist it a little with your thumb
and shoot. Working the line before the days of company and federal
safty regulations was rough and tumble and the old timers just took a
handful of rivets and popped them into their mouthes and drove on.
Once in a while you'd see one of them with green on their lips
although they were generally pretty careful. Once you get going and
develop a good technique its pretty fast.
For what its worth.
Gerry
Still waiting for unit 500.
Author: Rick Sked <heeder777@...> Time: Wed Jan 7, 2004 3:23 pm PST Link
Eric,
A dab of Boelube will make the cutter run a bit smoother and eliminate some of the skirting caused by vibration. I also am using single hole cutters which almost never chatter. As far as the scratches I found that on some of the less expensive microstops the foot is not always as smooth as we would like. I am using an industrial cutter with ball bearing supported shaft, the foot is polished to a mirror finish and has a larger surface area to bear on the material being cut. I never had material scratching until I used the less expansive cutter. I did apply some masking tape to the bottom which does help and polished the foot to get rid of any small burrs or sharp edges. I have found the ball bearing cutters don't get as hot as the bushed models do when there are a lot of holes to cut (spars). FWIW....I picked up three of these cutters on EBay for around $50.00 for the whole lot, that way I can grab the cutter I need without needing to swap bits all the time. Be advised though they may
come with quick change shafts. This is not a factor for me because I converted to this system from the start. Now my only problem is remembering where I left my chuck key in the few times I need to use it!
Just my 2 cents worth as other say... ;)
Rick Sked
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