Author: Dave Smith <dave@...> Time: Tue Jan 27, 2004 11:44 pm PST Link
Hi all,
This is a question for those of you that have done your rudder trailing
edges...did you use Van's method or something else? Mike Howe used a
different method that looks pretty interesting. You can see it half way
down his page at http://www.etigerrr.com/rudder_november_19.htm in the
green text. Looks like he's using the full-length angle iron as a back
riveting plate, then using a regular flush set in his rivet gun (as
opposed to a back-rivet set). Anybody else tried it this way?
--
Dave
http://www.rv10project.net
Author: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@...> Time: Wed Jan 28, 2004 9:48 am PST Link
Hi all,
>
>This is a question for those of you that have done your rudder trailing
>edges...did you use Van's method or something else? Mike Howe used a
>different method that looks pretty interesting. You can see it half way
>down his page at http://www.etigerrr.com/rudder_november_19.htm in the
>green text. Looks like he's using the full-length angle iron as a back
>riveting plate, then using a regular flush set in his rivet gun (as
>opposed to a back-rivet set). Anybody else tried it this way?
>--
>
>Dave
>http://www.rv10project.net
I used Mike's technique and it resulted in a razor straight trailing edge.
I did, however, impart a very slight "hook" in it from setting the rivets
fully on one side, instead of flipping it over to finish off the setting
from the opposite side as the manual states. Brain fart on my part. I
still recommend it, as long as you don't stray completely away from the
manual regarding the flip! I bought a piece of steel angle from Home Depot
to do the job. Had to eyeball a few pieces as there were some less than
perfect examples at the store that day. The surface finish is too rough for
back riveting so you have to buff it with the scotchbrite wheel to smooth it
down a bit. I used the assembled rudder as a drilling jig to drill every
other trailing edge hole in the angle iron, clamped it to the edge of the
bench and clecoed the rudder to it. I used the back set to set the rivets,
then finished them off with the swivel set as Mike shows. I should have
just barely set them with the back set, then flipped the rudder over, and
finished off with the swivel to avoid (hopefully) putting a hook in the
trailing edge. I'm going to do this on the elevators. Oh, I did not use
any sealant. The only hassle I experienced with this technique is how to
stabilize the rudder to set the rivets in the formerly clecod holes! I used
clamps and a couple strips of al sheet to slip into the top and bottom
rib/trailinge edge junctions to keep the rudder from scooting away from me
while using the rivet gun.
I'm convinced now that this double flush trailing edge riveting is more art
than science. I'm sure my next attempt will be better, but I'm quite
pleased with the first attempt. The rudder will likely need a trim tab
anyway once I get it flying so that little hook issue should be mitigated.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD folded trailing edges...easier to build, but not as pretty.
RV10 '51
_________________________________________________________________
High-speed users—be more efficient online with the new MSN Premium Internet
Software. http://join.msn.com/?pgmarket=en-us&page=byoa/prem&ST=1
Author: Sean and Bedford Lally <sean@...> Time: Wed Jan 28, 2004 10:02 am PST Link
I contemplated it, but went the Van's route. I was quite concerned I'd end
up with a wavy TE, but it came out like an arrow. One thing I was going to
post about when I did it was that the instructions (and everywhere else
I've read) said to be ever on the lookout for bowing while riveting the TE,
but nowhere did I see any instruction on what to do if you did see some
bowing. I actually did see some early on, did a ton of digging around,
didn't find anything so forged on. It worked itself out during the process.
I was quite pleased.
I'm less pleased by the leading edge. I don't think I rolled enough
and I've got a bit of a gap between the two skins in a couple of
places. I'm going to drill out all the blind rivets, re-roll and
re-rivet. I'm wondering if I can drill it out carefully enough that I can
use the same blind rivets that were originally called out. If not, is
there a document that describes how to pick out the next step up for blind
rivets. All the rivets that came with the kit seem quite distinct from
each other.
Thanks for all the great info on the list everyone.
Sean
At 10:28 PM 1/27/2004 -0800, you wrote:
>Hi all,
>
>This is a question for those of you that have done your rudder trailing
>edges...did you use Van's method or something else? Mike Howe used a
>different method that looks pretty interesting. You can see it half way
>down his page at http://www.etigerrr.com/rudder_november_19.htm in the
>green text. Looks like he's using the full-length angle iron as a back
>riveting plate, then using a regular flush set in his rivet gun (as
>opposed to a back-rivet set). Anybody else tried it this way?
>--
>
>Dave
>http://www.rv10project.net
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>To visit your group on the web, go to:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/RV10/
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> RV10-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Author: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@...> Time: Wed Jan 28, 2004 11:37 am PST Link
>I contemplated it, but went the Van's route. I was quite concerned I'd end
>up with a wavy TE, but it came out like an arrow. One thing I was going to
>post about when I did it was that the instructions (and everywhere else
>I've read) said to be ever on the lookout for bowing while riveting the TE,
>but nowhere did I see any instruction on what to do if you did see some
>bowing. I actually did see some early on, did a ton of digging around,
>didn't find anything so forged on. It worked itself out during the
>process.
>
>I was quite pleased.
>
>I'm less pleased by the leading edge. I don't think I rolled enough
>and I've got a bit of a gap between the two skins in a couple of
>places. I'm going to drill out all the blind rivets, re-roll and
>re-rivet. I'm wondering if I can drill it out carefully enough that I can
>use the same blind rivets that were originally called out. If not, is
>there a document that describes how to pick out the next step up for blind
>rivets. All the rivets that came with the kit seem quite distinct from
>each other.
>
>Thanks for all the great info on the list everyone.
>
>Sean
Good to know the Van plan works well!
For those puckering skins between rivets on the leading edge, I'd NOT remove
the rivets and simply drill for extra rivets at the puckers. When rolling
those leading edge skins, the mandrel (pipe, broomstick, whatever) is only
partially useful very early on to get the curve started. I finish the
majority of the rolling manually, by hand, so that they will come together
with very little preload on the skins, if any. Must be cautious, however,
to avoid kinking the skins. Go slowly, don't get gorilla ugly with it, and
they'll come out great. The edge roller tool is important to use on the
edges to dress down the overlying skin edge, but gotta do it before curling
the skins or fuggehdaboudit!
If you must drill out the rivets and start over, the oversized holes could
be filled with the next larger diameter, steel mandrel rivet. I found some
at a military surplus store years ago and had to use them in place of a
couple 6-32 screws in the gear box area of my RV8. They were identical to
the CS4-4's in every way, just larger. Man, when the rivet puller let go on
those babies, it sounded like a gunshot.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
RV10 '51
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
RV10 '51
_________________________________________________________________
Learn how to choose, serve, and enjoy wine at Wine @ MSN.
http://wine.msn.com/
Author: "rv7pete" <RV10Pete@...> Time: Wed Jan 28, 2004 1:39 pm PST Link
It sounds like a lot of extra work to use the alternative
method.....personally, I used the method in the book and had fabulous
results. my trailing edge is straight as an arrow also.
I did use the proseal and am very pleased with the result. It flues
the edge together and seemed (although probably only in my head) to
make the entire structure stiffer.
Knock yourself out with whichever method you want.....bt I'm happy
with Van's version.
Pete #100 done primering the cone and setting rivets tonight!
--- In RV10@yahoogroups.com, Dave Smith <dave@r...> wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> This is a question for those of you that have done your rudder
trailing
> edges...did you use Van's method or something else?
Author: "jaybrinkmeyer" <jaybrinkmeyer@...> Time: Wed Jan 28, 2004 1:40 pm PST Link
I did it the old fashioned way... using a small back-rivet set (once
you figure out what a "mushroom attachment" is ;-). The full length
jig does look like it might be an improvement over rivet-reposition-
rivet-reposition, etc. Use whatever works for you, but take your
time and let us know how it comes out...
--- In RV10@yahoogroups.com, Dave Smith <dave@r...> wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> This is a question for those of you that have done your rudder
trailing
> edges...did you use Van's method or something else? Mike Howe
used a
> different method that looks pretty interesting. You can see it
half way
> down his page at http://www.etigerrr.com/rudder_november_19.htm in
the
> green text. Looks like he's using the full-length angle iron as a
back
> riveting plate, then using a regular flush set in his rivet gun
(as
> opposed to a back-rivet set). Anybody else tried it this way?
> --
>
> Dave
> http://www.rv10project.net
Author: sean@... Time: Wed Jan 28, 2004 4:19 pm PST Link
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Brian Denk [mailto:akroguy@h...]
> Sent: Wednesday, January 28, 2004 06:47 PM
> To: RV10@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [RV10] Rudder Trailing Edge Riveting
>
> >I'm less pleased by the leading edge. I don't think I rolled enough
> >and I've got a bit of a gap between the two skins in a couple of
> >places. I'm going to drill out all the blind rivets, re-roll and
> >re-rivet. I'm wondering if I can drill it out carefully enough that I can
> >use the same blind rivets that were originally called out. If not, is
> >there a document that describes how to pick out the next step up for blind
> >rivets. All the rivets that came with the kit seem quite distinct from
> >each other.
>
> Good to know the Van plan works well!
>
> For those puckering skins between rivets on the leading edge, I'd NOT remove
> the rivets and simply drill for extra rivets at the puckers. When rolling
> those leading edge skins, the mandrel (pipe, broomstick, whatever) is only
> partially useful very early on to get the curve started. I finish the
> majority of the rolling manually, by hand, so that they will come together
> with very little preload on the skins, if any. Must be cautious, however,
> to avoid kinking the skins. Go slowly, don't get gorilla ugly with it, and
> they'll come out great. The edge roller tool is important to use on the
> edges to dress down the overlying skin edge, but gotta do it before curling
> the skins or fuggehdaboudit!
>
> If you must drill out the rivets and start over, the oversized holes could
> be filled with the next larger diameter, steel mandrel rivet. I found some
> at a military surplus store years ago and had to use them in place of a
> couple 6-32 screws in the gear box area of my RV8. They were identical to
> the CS4-4's in every way, just larger. Man, when the rivet puller let goon
> those babies, it sounded like a gunshot.
Thanks for the advice, Brian. I'll have to take another look to see if adding rivets will help. I moved on to drilling and deburring the HS parts until some replacement rivets arrived (I just ordered more of the CS4-4's in case I could just use more of the same, turns out probably not...).
Interesting that you did most of the rolling with your hands. If I do drill it out I'll give that a go. I'm afraid part of my problem is that there is too much pre-loading on the skins, if by preloading you mean that the skins would pop apart if the fasteners are removed.
I'll keep trying till I get it right. Thanks again.
Sean
Author: "Matthew" <mbrandes@...> Time: Wed Jan 28, 2004 4:21 pm PST Link
I did my RV-9 rudder this way. My only caution is to make sure the
angle iron is dead flat/straight. The piece I used wasn't quite
straight so I have a small curve in the rudder.. not much but
noticiable when you look at it.
Matthew
RV-9A Wings
www.n523rv.com
--- In RV10@yahoogroups.com, Dave Smith <dave@r...> wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> This is a question for those of you that have done your rudder
trailing
> edges...did you use Van's method or something else? Mike Howe used
a
> different method that looks pretty interesting. You can see it
half way
> down his page at http://www.etigerrr.com/rudder_november_19.htm in
the
> green text. Looks like he's using the full-length angle iron as a
back
> riveting plate, then using a regular flush set in his rivet gun (as
> opposed to a back-rivet set). Anybody else tried it this way?
> --
>
> Dave
> http://www.rv10project.net
Author: "jaybrinkmeyer" <jaybrinkmeyer@...> Time: Wed Jan 28, 2004 4:25 pm PST Link
Confesssions of the rich and famous... I had a few inches of bowing
in the middle and fixed it by carefully bending with my fingers. Now
it's nice and straight.
Drilling out pop rivets won't be fun and you'll probably bugger
things up more while doing it. After you've slapped on some paint
and attached the rudder would it be "good enough" as is???
--- In RV10@yahoogroups.com, "Brian Denk" <akroguy@h...> wrote:
> >I contemplated it, but went the Van's route. I was quite
concerned I'd end
> >up with a wavy TE, but it came out like an arrow. One thing I
was going to
> >post about when I did it was that the instructions (and
everywhere else
> >I've read) said to be ever on the lookout for bowing while
riveting the TE,
> >but nowhere did I see any instruction on what to do if you did
see some
> >bowing. I actually did see some early on, did a ton of digging
around,
> >didn't find anything so forged on. It worked itself out during
the
> >process.
> >
> >I was quite pleased.
> >
> >I'm less pleased by the leading edge. I don't think I rolled
enough
> >and I've got a bit of a gap between the two skins in a couple of
> >places. I'm going to drill out all the blind rivets, re-roll and
> >re-rivet. I'm wondering if I can drill it out carefully enough
that I can
> >use the same blind rivets that were originally called out. If
not, is
> >there a document that describes how to pick out the next step up
for blind
> >rivets. All the rivets that came with the kit seem quite
distinct from
> >each other.
> >
> >Thanks for all the great info on the list everyone.
> >
> >Sean
> Good to know the Van plan works well!
>
> For those puckering skins between rivets on the leading edge, I'd
NOT remove
> the rivets and simply drill for extra rivets at the puckers. When
rolling
> those leading edge skins, the mandrel (pipe, broomstick, whatever)
is only
> partially useful very early on to get the curve started. I finish
the
> majority of the rolling manually, by hand, so that they will come
together
> with very little preload on the skins, if any. Must be cautious,
however,
> to avoid kinking the skins. Go slowly, don't get gorilla ugly
with it, and
> they'll come out great. The edge roller tool is important to use
on the
> edges to dress down the overlying skin edge, but gotta do it
before curling
> the skins or fuggehdaboudit!
>
> If you must drill out the rivets and start over, the oversized
holes could
> be filled with the next larger diameter, steel mandrel rivet. I
found some
> at a military surplus store years ago and had to use them in place
of a
> couple 6-32 screws in the gear box area of my RV8. They were
identical to
> the CS4-4's in every way, just larger. Man, when the rivet puller
let go on
> those babies, it sounded like a gunshot.
>
> Brian Denk
> RV8 N94BD
> RV10 '51
>
> Brian Denk
> RV8 N94BD
> RV10 '51
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Learn how to choose, serve, and enjoy wine at Wine @ MSN.
> http://wine.msn.com/
Author: Dave Smith <dave@...> Time: Fri Jan 30, 2004 3:36 am PST Link
So Brian, you're thinking that if you'd finished setting the rivets from
the factory side it would have come out better? I'd asked Mike whether
he flipped the rudder over to do the other half, but he hasn't
responded, so I'm not sure if he did or not, but it sounds like a good idea.
Brian Denk wrote:
>Hi all,
>>This is a question for those of you that have done your rudder trailing
>>edges...did you use Van's method or something else? Mike Howe used a
>>different method that looks pretty interesting. You can see it half way
>>down his page at http://www.etigerrr.com/rudder_november_19.htm in the
>>green text. Looks like he's using the full-length angle iron as a back
>>riveting plate, then using a regular flush set in his rivet gun (as
>>opposed to a back-rivet set). Anybody else tried it this way?
>>--
>>
>>Dave
>>http://www.rv10project.net
>I used Mike's technique and it resulted in a razor straight trailing edge.
>I did, however, impart a very slight "hook" in it from setting the rivets
>fully on one side, instead of flipping it over to finish off the setting
>from the opposite side as the manual states. Brain fart on my part. I
>still recommend it, as long as you don't stray completely away from the
>manual regarding the flip! I bought a piece of steel angle from Home Depot
>to do the job. Had to eyeball a few pieces as there were some less than
>perfect examples at the store that day. The surface finish is too rough for
>back riveting so you have to buff it with the scotchbrite wheel to smooth it
>down a bit. I used the assembled rudder as a drilling jig to drill every
>other trailing edge hole in the angle iron, clamped it to the edge of the
>bench and clecoed the rudder to it. I used the back set to set the rivets,
>then finished them off with the swivel set as Mike shows. I should have
>just barely set them with the back set, then flipped the rudder over, and
>finished off with the swivel to avoid (hopefully) putting a hook in the
>trailing edge. I'm going to do this on the elevators. Oh, I did not use
>any sealant. The only hassle I experienced with this technique is how to
>stabilize the rudder to set the rivets in the formerly clecod holes! I used
>clamps and a couple strips of al sheet to slip into the top and bottom
>rib/trailinge edge junctions to keep the rudder from scooting away from me
>while using the rivet gun.
>
>I'm convinced now that this double flush trailing edge riveting is more art
>than science. I'm sure my next attempt will be better, but I'm quite
>pleased with the first attempt. The rudder will likely need a trim tab
>anyway once I get it flying so that little hook issue should be mitigated.
>
>Brian Denk
>RV8 N94BD folded trailing edges...easier to build, but not as pretty.
>RV10 '51
>
>_________________________________________________________________
>High-speed users—be more efficient online with the new MSN Premium Internet
>Software. http://join.msn.com/?pgmarket=en-us&page=byoa/prem&ST=1
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>To visit your group on the web, go to:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/RV10/
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> RV10-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--
Dave
http://www.rv10project.net
Author: "rv7pete" <RV10Pete@...> Time: Fri Jan 30, 2004 8:12 am PST Link
When I did mine, I flipped it over and put the shop head down on my
back rivet plate and then used a mushroom set on the factory
heads...by working the mushroom set on the high points, I good a
great result and took any bowing out.
Pete
--- In RV10@yahoogroups.com, Dave Smith <dave@r...> wrote:
> So Brian, you're thinking that if you'd finished setting the rivets
from
> the factory side it would have come out better? I'd asked Mike
whether
> he flipped the rudder over to do the other half, but he hasn't
> responded, so I'm not sure if he did or not, but it sounds like a
good idea.
>
> Brian Denk wrote:
>
> >Hi all,
> >>This is a question for those of you that have done your rudder
trailing
> >>edges...did you use Van's method or something else? Mike Howe
used a
> >>different method that looks pretty interesting. You can see it
half way
> >>down his page at http://www.etigerrr.com/rudder_november_19.htm
in the
> >>green text. Looks like he's using the full-length angle iron as
a back
> >>riveting plate, then using a regular flush set in his rivet gun
(as
> >>opposed to a back-rivet set). Anybody else tried it this way?
> >>--
> >>
> >>Dave
> >>http://www.rv10project.net
> >I used Mike's technique and it resulted in a razor straight
trailing edge.
> >I did, however, impart a very slight "hook" in it from setting the
rivets
> >fully on one side, instead of flipping it over to finish off the
setting
> >from the opposite side as the manual states. Brain fart on my
part. I
> >still recommend it, as long as you don't stray completely away
from the
> >manual regarding the flip! I bought a piece of steel angle from
Home Depot
> >to do the job. Had to eyeball a few pieces as there were some
less than
> >perfect examples at the store that day. The surface finish is too
rough for
> >back riveting so you have to buff it with the scotchbrite wheel to
smooth it
> >down a bit. I used the assembled rudder as a drilling jig to
drill every
> >other trailing edge hole in the angle iron, clamped it to the edge
of the
> >bench and clecoed the rudder to it. I used the back set to set
the rivets,
> >then finished them off with the swivel set as Mike shows. I
should have
> >just barely set them with the back set, then flipped the rudder
over, and
> >finished off with the swivel to avoid (hopefully) putting a hook
in the
> >trailing edge. I'm going to do this on the elevators. Oh, I did
not use
> >any sealant. The only hassle I experienced with this technique is
how to
> >stabilize the rudder to set the rivets in the formerly clecod
holes! I used
> >clamps and a couple strips of al sheet to slip into the top and
bottom
> >rib/trailinge edge junctions to keep the rudder from scooting away
from me
> >while using the rivet gun.
> >
> >I'm convinced now that this double flush trailing edge riveting is
more art
> >than science. I'm sure my next attempt will be better, but I'm
quite
> >pleased with the first attempt. The rudder will likely need a
trim tab
> >anyway once I get it flying so that little hook issue should be
mitigated.
> >
> >Brian Denk
> >RV8 N94BD folded trailing edges...easier to build, but not as
pretty.
> >RV10 '51
> >
> >_________________________________________________________________
> >High-speed users—be more efficient online with the new MSN Premium
Internet
> >Software. http://join.msn.com/?pgmarket=en-us&page=byoa/prem&ST=1
> >Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >To visit your group on the web, go to:
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/RV10/
> >
> >To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > RV10-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
> > http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> --
>
> Dave
> http://www.rv10project.net
Author: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@...> Time: Fri Jan 30, 2004 8:14 am PST Link
>So Brian, you're thinking that if you'd finished setting the rivets from
>the factory side it would have come out better? I'd asked Mike whether
>he flipped the rudder over to do the other half, but he hasn't
>responded, so I'm not sure if he did or not, but it sounds like a good
>idea.
>
>Brian Denk wrote:
Yeah, I think it might, or maybe do the fllip a couple of times to work the
rivets down to final set. The rivets lean at the very end of the setting
process, as you have to tilt the rivet gun to parallel the surface of the
rudder. When it does this, it imparts a bending force on the AEX
wedge....not a lot, but in conjunction with all the others, I can see how it
would try to bend up the trailinge edge a bit. I've also pondered setting
1/2 of the rivets from one side, then install the remaining half from the
other side, but maybe that would cause a ripple effect to the edge? For the
other riveting trailing edged surfaces, I'm going to use the same basic
technique, but will flip the surface and finish off on the manufactured
head. I do like the angle iron approach a lot.
Brian Denk
_________________________________________________________________
Learn how to choose, serve, and enjoy wine at Wine @ MSN.
http://wine.msn.com/
Author: "Mike Howe" <mikemb@...> Time: Fri Jan 30, 2004 8:16 am PST Link
The one side of the rivet does not finish looking real good, but I plan to
just use a little body filler to fix them
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: Dave Smith [mailto:dave@r...]
Sent: Thursday, January 29, 2004 9:56 PM
To: RV10@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [RV10] Rudder Trailing Edge Riveting
So Brian, you're thinking that if you'd finished setting the rivets from
the factory side it would have come out better? I'd asked Mike whether
he flipped the rudder over to do the other half, but he hasn't
responded, so I'm not sure if he did or not, but it sounds like a good idea.
Brian Denk wrote:
>Hi all,
>>This is a question for those of you that have done your rudder trailing
>>edges...did you use Van's method or something else? Mike Howe used a
>>different method that looks pretty interesting. You can see it half way
>>down his page at http://www.etigerrr.com/rudder_november_19.htm in the
>>green text. Looks like he's using the full-length angle iron as a back
>>riveting plate, then using a regular flush set in his rivet gun (as
>>opposed to a back-rivet set). Anybody else tried it this way?
>>--
>>
>>Dave
>>http://www.rv10project.net
>I used Mike's technique and it resulted in a razor straight trailing edge.
>I did, however, impart a very slight "hook" in it from setting the rivets
>fully on one side, instead of flipping it over to finish off the setting
>from the opposite side as the manual states. Brain fart on my part. I
>still recommend it, as long as you don't stray completely away from the
>manual regarding the flip! I bought a piece of steel angle from Home Depot
>to do the job. Had to eyeball a few pieces as there were some less than
>perfect examples at the store that day. The surface finish is too rough
for
>back riveting so you have to buff it with the scotchbrite wheel to smooth
it
>down a bit. I used the assembled rudder as a drilling jig to drill every
>other trailing edge hole in the angle iron, clamped it to the edge of the
>bench and clecoed the rudder to it. I used the back set to set the rivets,
>then finished them off with the swivel set as Mike shows. I should have
>just barely set them with the back set, then flipped the rudder over, and
>finished off with the swivel to avoid (hopefully) putting a hook in the
>trailing edge. I'm going to do this on the elevators. Oh, I did not use
>any sealant. The only hassle I experienced with this technique is how to
>stabilize the rudder to set the rivets in the formerly clecod holes! I
used
>clamps and a couple strips of al sheet to slip into the top and bottom
>rib/trailinge edge junctions to keep the rudder from scooting away from me
>while using the rivet gun.
>
>I'm convinced now that this double flush trailing edge riveting is more art
>than science. I'm sure my next attempt will be better, but I'm quite
>pleased with the first attempt. The rudder will likely need a trim tab
>anyway once I get it flying so that little hook issue should be mitigated.
>
>Brian Denk
>RV8 N94BD folded trailing edges...easier to build, but not as pretty.
>RV10 '51
>
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Author: TColeE@... Time: Fri Jan 30, 2004 10:25 am PST Link
I to had a problem and drilled out the rivets. Called vans and asked if the
LP4-3 could be substituted and got the OK. Seems the leading edge rivets are
less expensive and they can be used. there non structural rivets there. So I
drilled out the less expensive and used an eadge roller and put a ever so slight
crease on the top leading roll. Results = almost perfection. Now I"ll
borrow,beg or heaven forbid: purchase some LP4-3 from friends when I will need them
later on in the building process
Terry E. Cole
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