Author: "Andrew" <dorandrew@...> Time: Fri Sep 12, 2003 5:17 pm PDT Link
Hi every one,
Now that I have spent a few days with the fueselage, I have a few
more quesstions. Has anyone had working rivit problems near the tail
wheel spring mount, I am considering assembling with dimpled holes,
pro-seal and or using "DD" rivits. I will be flying off gravel most
of the time.
Do the spar splice bars (steel pieces) need to be in place when I
rivit all that F404 attaching structure together? I have made my
wood spacer for F404, should it be dead n*ts on(spar thickness)
diminsion, or should I add a few thousands? Has any one had problems
with the cad plating being scrapped off the bolts durring install?
FYI I tapped the moter mount hole 1/4-28 to make firewall mounting
and adjustment easier.
Last and of dubious importance, is my kit # the numbers vibro-
etched on the spar splice bars or is it my plans #?
Thanks
Andrew
Author: "staart" <staart@...> Time: Sat Sep 13, 2003 4:45 pm PDT Link
----- Original Message -----
From: Andrew
To: RV-4@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, September 12, 2003 1:51 PM
Subject: [RV-4] More Questions
Hi every one,
Now that I have spent a few days with the fueselage, I have a few
more quesstions. Has anyone had working rivit problems near the tail
wheel spring mount, I am considering assembling with dimpled holes,
pro-seal and or using "DD" rivits. I will be flying off gravel most
of the time.
Andrew, I haven't heard of any problems with the rivits working ant the tail spring mount. I would think that proseal between the bulkheads that the mount attaches to and between the bulkheads and the weldment would increase the strength quite a bit.
Do the spar splice bars (steel pieces) need to be in place when I
rivit all that F404 attaching structure together? I have made my
wood spacer for F404, should it be dead n*ts on(spar thickness)
diminsion, or should I add a few thousands? Has any one had problems
with the cad plating being scrapped off the bolts durring install?
(I had my spars done before I built up the F-404, I remember riviting the angles onto the fore and aft 404 bulkheads then just clecoing the side caps on. I then put the spars them selfs into the 404 assy and supported the ends and bolted the splice plates into the bulkheads with one bolt at each end, top and bottom. Then I rivited the sides and the rest of the 404 assembly. Thus "Jigging" the 404 assembly with the spars that would need to fit into them later. Yes, the spars went in easly and fit very well. I remember clamping the inboard ends to keep the stack of metal together and champfered the vertical edges so they wouldn't try to gouge as they slid in. I also put them in wet with zink chromate.)
Hope this helps, Randy
FYI I tapped the moter mount hole 1/4-28 to make firewall mounting
and adjustment easier.
Last and of dubious importance, is my kit # the numbers vibro-
etched on the spar splice bars or is it my plans #?
Thanks
Andrew
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Author: "Thomas R. Brown" <RV4Brown@...> Time: Sun Sep 14, 2003 8:24 am PDT Link
Good morning Andrew,
I have an RV4 with 250 hours. Its been three years since I completed the
construction. Your questions are interesting.
Is there anyone in your area that has completed an RV-4 you can look at
or speak with them directly? This would be a great help and you will
avoid a ton of rework.
Were your spars assembled by phlogistan? I don't remember if their
numbering system included the plans/kit number. My suspicion is that
they would since the box spar parts were shipped directly to them from
Vans. Once drilled they would be a unique set of wings and spar box
assigned to a particular kit.
The spar box is critical. It is the basis for the entire airplane. The
wood spar needs to be exact. The real question is, "what is exact"? I
found that thespar laminations tend to spread a little when not bolted
together. This causes the hole alignment to move and yes the cad plating
will probably be scraped some when installing. Using primer as a
lubricant during the final install will help. If you are like most
folks, you may find some of the holes need to be reamed. Unloading the
wings and having someone there to help jiggle things will help a great
deal during assembly.
The tail section when completed is quite strong and rigid. Follow the
plans exactly! I haven't heard of anyone having problems with the
rivets. If you haven't done so, I recommend the full swivel tail wheel.
What hole did you tap on the motor mount?
The extra time spent on alignment and triple checking your work will pay
huge dividends at this stage. Its also the moment when you find all the
tolerances in your previous work makes life more challenging. Good
luck. Check everthing thrice. Follow the plans.
Word of advice. Pay particular attention to nutplate locations and rivet
holes on the floor plans. Visualize everything that needs to go in place
before drilling.
Cheers,
Tom Brown
Andrew wrote:
> Hi every one,
> Now that I have spent a few days with the fueselage, I have a few
> more quesstions. Has anyone had working rivit problems near the tail
> wheel spring mount, I am considering assembling with dimpled holes,
> pro-seal and or using "DD" rivits. I will be flying off gravel most
> of the time.
> Do the spar splice bars (steel pieces) need to be in place when I
> rivit all that F404 attaching structure together? I have made my
> wood spacer for F404, should it be dead n*ts on(spar thickness)
> diminsion, or should I add a few thousands? Has any one had problems
> with the cad plating being scrapped off the bolts durring install?
> FYI I tapped the moter mount hole 1/4-28 to make firewall mounting
> and adjustment easier.
> Last and of dubious importance, is my kit # the numbers vibro-
> etched on the spar splice bars or is it my plans #?
> Thanks
> Andrew
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Author: "Bob & Lucille Olds" <oldsfolks@...> Time: Sun Sep 14, 2003 2:33 pm PDT Link
Andrew:
I didn't put the precision bolts in at all until I put them in to
stay. I used AN bolts for fitting and assembly of F-404.
I used 5/8" particle board(2 thicknesses) for a dummy spar/spacer to
build the F-404 bulkhead and I made them 4' long so I could support
the fuselage with them after the fuselage came off the jig.
I put the precision bolts in the freezer for a few days and got them
out 1 at a time on final wing attach.
After priming,painting,etc. around the spars,I used the precision
reamers to clean out the holes prior to installing the bolts
permanently. I have a set of the reamers,when that time comes.
Never cut off ANYTHING until you have to !!
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers