Author: "Andy Ratcliffe" <aratc@...> Time: Thu Sep 18, 2003 7:17 am PDT Link
Hi,
I know it's taken me a while to get to this stage but like all things
time is an issue. I have a few questions before I get down to the
real work of putting it all together.
1. To get the rivet spacing correct on the ribs to skin it means
rivetting on the joggle between rib and spar is this acceptable?
2. Does it matter whether the shop head face forward or aft when
rivetting the Flange strips on the Rear spar?
If anyone has any tips for getting the skin attached to the H/S frame
I'd like to hear more, Back riveting/drilling from the inside
out/Outside in!
Thanks for the help.
Andy
Author: Scott Vanartsdalen <svanarts@...> Time: Thu Sep 18, 2003 9:34 am PDT Link
I'd face the shop heads aft on the aft spar. Give the elevator plenty of room to work.
Andy Ratcliffe <aratc@b...> wrote:Hi,
I know it's taken me a while to get to this stage but like all things
time is an issue. I have a few questions before I get down to the
real work of putting it all together.
1. To get the rivet spacing correct on the ribs to skin it means
rivetting on the joggle between rib and spar is this acceptable?
2. Does it matter whether the shop head face forward or aft when
rivetting the Flange strips on the Rear spar?
If anyone has any tips for getting the skin attached to the H/S frame
I'd like to hear more, Back riveting/drilling from the inside
out/Outside in!
Thanks for the help.
Andy
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Author: "Andrew" <dorandrew@...> Time: Thu Sep 18, 2003 4:45 pm PDT Link
--- In RV-4@yahoogroups.com, "Andy Ratcliffe" <aratc@b...> wrote:
> Hey Andy,
The short answers as follows, Yes, provided it is not in the bend
or "ramp up" (everything needs to lie together without gaps.) 2 No,
3 Whatever works. Now the expanded answers,
1. Most call outs for a rivit spacing are "referance"", or "nominal"
diminsions. This means it is O.K. to fudge by adding a few extra
rivits to take other things into consideration. Add, don't
subtract.If putting a rivit in an "intersection" is whats needed, do
that then see what the nominal spacing does and adjust as necesary.
2. I shot my rivits backwards to give me more room to buck the skin
rivits.The rule of thumb for fastener installation is from top down,
from outboard to inboard, and from forward to aft. Generally rivits
don't care which way thay are shot, so long as it compleatly fills
the hole.
3 The fun one. I used a few pieces of 1/2" wide by as long as
necesary scap aluminum.
a)lay out your rivits on the scrap and drill in assembly with the
frame, cleco. These scraps need to be long enough to screw to the
jig, and not move out of position when they are un-clecoed. Not all
the holes need to be drilled at this time. Avoid going over to much
of a radius. (the leading edge)
b)un cleco and carefully hold the scrap out of the way while you
clamp the skin where you want it.( a hole other issue)
c) drill and cleco.
d) take apart, recleco half the skin and back drill or use the scrap
like steps a-c less screwed to the wood jig. Again, a sharp radius
is best back drilled or not drilled in the frame at all, wait until
the last few holes need to be drilled then lay out the position
based on what you have.
This whole rig is an oversize one time strap duplicator rig. If you
need scraps, go to a local shop and ask, I imagine a 12 pack of coke
will get you enough scrap to get through the hole airplane.
Good luck, Andrew
> I know it's taken me a while to get to this stage but like all
things
> time is an issue. I have a few questions before I get down to the
> real work of putting it all together.
> 1. To get the rivet spacing correct on the ribs to skin it means
> rivetting on the joggle between rib and spar is this acceptable?
> 2. Does it matter whether the shop head face forward or aft when
> rivetting the Flange strips on the Rear spar?
> If anyone has any tips for getting the skin attached to the H/S
frame
> I'd like to hear more, Back riveting/drilling from the inside
> out/Outside in!
>
> Thanks for the help.
>
> Andy
Author: "peclassen" <peclassen@...> Time: Thu Sep 18, 2003 4:45 pm PDT Link
Since I just began construction as well, I'd be interested in
hearing any of your question and answers as you go along.
I just put my shop heads on the forward side or the spar. It made it
fairly easy to just put the back riveting plate on the jig and go
right down the line with the gun.
--- In RV-4@yahoogroups.com, "Andy Ratcliffe" <aratc@b...> wrote:
> Hi,
> I know it's taken me a while to get to this stage but like all
things
> time is an issue. I have a few questions before I get down to the
> real work of putting it all together.
> 1. To get the rivet spacing correct on the ribs to skin it means
> rivetting on the joggle between rib and spar is this acceptable?
> 2. Does it matter whether the shop head face forward or aft when
> rivetting the Flange strips on the Rear spar?
> If anyone has any tips for getting the skin attached to the H/S
frame
> I'd like to hear more, Back riveting/drilling from the inside
> out/Outside in!
>
> Thanks for the help.
>
> Andy