Author: "Robert Mears" <bobmears50@...> Time: Sun May 22, 2005 3:32 pm PDT Link
I am to the point of putting the 3/4 x 3/4 angles that support the
engine mounting pads on the firewall . Van says to dimple them for a
smooth surface on the engine side. That is fine for all but the two
rows that are on the shelf portion of the firewall. Since the firewall
is already rivited together, how do you get to those two rows of rivets
for dimpling. I have the little "nail" dimpler but I suspect it will
not handle the SS firewall. I will give it a shot but I have no
confidence it will work.It is a shame the book of instructions did not
include the holes for these brackets as part of the preconstruction of
the firewall.
Bob Mears
Author: "Robert Mears" <bobmears50@...> Time: Mon May 23, 2005 3:30 am PDT Link
I guess I can answer my own question here. After I sent the email, I tried
the little nail dimpler and it worked lik a charm. I was surprised. Should
have tried it before I sent the email. So, no need to respond to this one.
Bob Mears
>From: "Robert Mears" <bobmears50@hotmail.com>
>Reply-To: RV-4@yahoogroups.com
>To: RV-4@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [RV-4] RV4 Firewall dimpling
>Date: Sun, 22 May 2005 16:13:05 -0000
>
>I am to the point of putting the 3/4 x 3/4 angles that support the
>engine mounting pads on the firewall . Van says to dimple them for a
>smooth surface on the engine side. That is fine for all but the two
>rows that are on the shelf portion of the firewall. Since the firewall
>is already rivited together, how do you get to those two rows of rivets
>for dimpling. I have the little "nail" dimpler but I suspect it will
>not handle the SS firewall. I will give it a shot but I have no
>confidence it will work.It is a shame the book of instructions did not
>include the holes for these brackets as part of the preconstruction of
>the firewall.
>
>Bob Mears
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Author: "Les Boatright" <les_4_fl@...> Time: Sat May 28, 2005 1:27 pm PDT Link
Hi Bob,
I know you answered your own question already, but I ran into a
situation very similar to yours recently while dimpling the firewall
for mounting the rudder-pedal brackets, so I thought I'd share a
little tip I discovered.
Get a standard set of dimple dies, a small block of wood, (I used a
small scrap from a 2x4), a hammer, and the long steel driver-rod
from the C-frame hand-dimpling tool that most people have. With
this, you can make a simple hand-dimpler for places that you can't
access with a squeezer or the C-frame tool.
I drilled a small hole (less than a 1/2" deep) into the wood block
so I could insert the female half of the die, just as if I were
inserting it into the squeezer. Basically, the wood block acts as a
handle or a back-up block for the female die. You could even use a
steel bucking bar for this if you wanted more mass for backing up
the female die, (and if you didn't mind drilling a hole into one of
your bucking bars). The wood block worked great for me, AND it was
cheap!
Then, I put the male die into the steel driver-rod that I took from
the c-frame tool, and I'm ready to dimple.
It's not really a one-person job, but it's quick & easy, and works
great. Just get a friend to hold the wood block/female die on the
back side of the firewall, while you insert the male die from the
front side and give the steel rod one or two good whacks with the
hammer and you're done!
Just make sure your friend is applying a little back-up pressure to
the block on the back side, and don't hit the steel driver-rod too
hard, or you could end up denting the piece you're working on.
If someone were REALLY industrious, they could take one of the rivet-
sets that they never use, grind it flush at the tip, and drill a
hole in the end of it for installing a dimple die. Install the male
die into the modified rivet set, and put it in the gun. Now you can
hold the block with the female die in one hand, and the rivet gun
with the male die in the other hand, and it's a one-person job again.
I might have gone that way, but it just seemed like WAY TOO MUCH
tool fabrication work for no more holes than I needed to dimple!
Cheers,
Les Boatright
Titusville, FL
RV-4 Fuselage
--- In RV-4@yahoogroups.com, "Robert Mears" <bobmears50@h...> wrote:
> I guess I can answer my own question here. After I sent the email,
I tried
> the little nail dimpler and it worked lik a charm. I was
surprised. Should
> have tried it before I sent the email. So, no need to respond to
this one.
>
> Bob Mears
>
> >From: "Robert Mears" <bobmears50@h...>
> >Reply-To: RV-4@yahoogroups.com
> >To: RV-4@yahoogroups.com
> >Subject: [RV-4] RV4 Firewall dimpling
> >Date: Sun, 22 May 2005 16:13:05 -0000
> >
> >I am to the point of putting the 3/4 x 3/4 angles that support the
> >engine mounting pads on the firewall . Van says to dimple them
for a
> >smooth surface on the engine side. That is fine for all but the
two
> >rows that are on the shelf portion of the firewall. Since the
firewall
> >is already rivited together, how do you get to those two rows of
rivets
> >for dimpling. I have the little "nail" dimpler but I suspect it
will
> >not handle the SS firewall. I will give it a shot but I have no
> >confidence it will work.It is a shame the book of instructions
did not
> >include the holes for these brackets as part of the
preconstruction of
> >the firewall.
> >
> >Bob Mears
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Author: "Robert Mears" <bobmears50@...> Time: Sun May 29, 2005 4:22 am PDT Link
Good Idea. I learned later that a friend of mine had drilled hole in a metal
plate and the counter sunk it. He used it as bucking bar and hammered the
other end. Stainless Steel is not very hard and dimples pretty easily.
Thanks for sharing what you knew about this stuff. It helps.
>From: "Les Boatright" <les_4_fl@yahoo.com>
>Reply-To: RV-4@yahoogroups.com
>To: RV-4@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [RV-4] Re: RV4 Firewall dimpling
>Date: Sat, 28 May 2005 13:27:42 -0000
>
>Hi Bob,
>
>I know you answered your own question already, but I ran into a
>situation very similar to yours recently while dimpling the firewall
>for mounting the rudder-pedal brackets, so I thought I'd share a
>little tip I discovered.
>
>Get a standard set of dimple dies, a small block of wood, (I used a
>small scrap from a 2x4), a hammer, and the long steel driver-rod
>from the C-frame hand-dimpling tool that most people have. With
>this, you can make a simple hand-dimpler for places that you can't
>access with a squeezer or the C-frame tool.
>
>I drilled a small hole (less than a 1/2" deep) into the wood block
>so I could insert the female half of the die, just as if I were
>inserting it into the squeezer. Basically, the wood block acts as a
>handle or a back-up block for the female die. You could even use a
>steel bucking bar for this if you wanted more mass for backing up
>the female die, (and if you didn't mind drilling a hole into one of
>your bucking bars). The wood block worked great for me, AND it was
>cheap!
>
>Then, I put the male die into the steel driver-rod that I took from
>the c-frame tool, and I'm ready to dimple.
>
>It's not really a one-person job, but it's quick & easy, and works
>great. Just get a friend to hold the wood block/female die on the
>back side of the firewall, while you insert the male die from the
>front side and give the steel rod one or two good whacks with the
>hammer and you're done!
>
>Just make sure your friend is applying a little back-up pressure to
>the block on the back side, and don't hit the steel driver-rod too
>hard, or you could end up denting the piece you're working on.
>
>If someone were REALLY industrious, they could take one of the rivet-
>sets that they never use, grind it flush at the tip, and drill a
>hole in the end of it for installing a dimple die. Install the male
>die into the modified rivet set, and put it in the gun. Now you can
>hold the block with the female die in one hand, and the rivet gun
>with the male die in the other hand, and it's a one-person job again.
>
>I might have gone that way, but it just seemed like WAY TOO MUCH
>tool fabrication work for no more holes than I needed to dimple!
>
>Cheers,
>Les Boatright
>Titusville, FL
>RV-4 Fuselage
>--- In RV-4@yahoogroups.com, "Robert Mears" <bobmears50@h...> wrote:
> > I guess I can answer my own question here. After I sent the email,
>I tried
> > the little nail dimpler and it worked lik a charm. I was
>surprised. Should
> > have tried it before I sent the email. So, no need to respond to
>this one.
> >
> > Bob Mears
> >
> > >From: "Robert Mears" <bobmears50@h...>
> > >Reply-To: RV-4@yahoogroups.com
> > >To: RV-4@yahoogroups.com
> > >Subject: [RV-4] RV4 Firewall dimpling
> > >Date: Sun, 22 May 2005 16:13:05 -0000
> > >
> > >I am to the point of putting the 3/4 x 3/4 angles that support the
> > >engine mounting pads on the firewall . Van says to dimple them
>for a
> > >smooth surface on the engine side. That is fine for all but the
>two
> > >rows that are on the shelf portion of the firewall. Since the
>firewall
> > >is already rivited together, how do you get to those two rows of
>rivets
> > >for dimpling. I have the little "nail" dimpler but I suspect it
>will
> > >not handle the SS firewall. I will give it a shot but I have no
> > >confidence it will work.It is a shame the book of instructions
>did not
> > >include the holes for these brackets as part of the
>preconstruction of
> > >the firewall.
> > >
> > >Bob Mears
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