Author: shearbond@... Time: Tue Aug 28, 2001 7:26 am PDT Link
Ellis:
With the pneumatic squeezer, dimpling the skeleton by itself while "lightly
clecoed" on the jig is quite possible, if sometimes a bit clumsy due to the
proximity of ones jig to the rear spar. The skins are very easy on the Avery
"C-Frame" and can be done by oneself, although easier if one has a helper.
The dimple tool WILL punch a hole right through the skin all by itself. So
MAKE CERTAIN that the male dimple tool is up through the hole and HOLD IT
THERE ie...DOWN OVER THE MALE DIE. This VERY undesirable one-step punching I
did on a piece of scrap while practicing. Probably had my eyes closed
waiting for the "Bang"? Hearing protection ($17.99 at Home Depot) seems to
keep the "jerk" response down when riveting and hammering? The Gods smile
sometimes!! I do a lighter double hit (Bang-bang) and get what I believe are
straighter sides to the dimple. I also use the de-burring tool on the hole
just before inserting the rivet to be bucked...as per the Orendorff video.
The HS skin came out really smooth. We are all pretty proud of the result
(well, all save one rivet).
So, dimple the stiffeners and frame either together or separate, although
separate is easier. Dimple the skin on the c-frame. Prime, refit and
rivet....follow the directions and read ahead. The 3 skin overlap requires a
longer rivet as clearly spelled out on the drawing.
Regards and POR,
Doug
Author: "Neil McLeod" <bedrock@...> Time: Tue Aug 28, 2001 9:43 am PDT Link
I found the same thing, my solution was tolay two 5 lb. weights on the skin so it wouldn't come of the die and remove the spring from the C tool. Less convienient but safer.
Neil
----- Original Message -----
From: shearbond@a... (mailto:shearbond@a...)
To: RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com (mailto:rv7and7a@yahoogroups.com)
Sent: Tuesday, August 28, 2001 7:24 AM
Subject: [RV7and7A] Re: Dimpling
Ellis:
With the pneumatic squeezer, dimpling the skeleton by itself while "lightly
clecoed" on the jig is quite possible, if sometimes a bit clumsy due to the
proximity of ones jig to the rear spar. The skins are very easy on the Avery
"C-Frame" and can bedone by oneself, although easier if one has a helper.
The dimple tool WILL punch a hole right through the skin all by itself. So
MAKE CERTAIN that the male dimple tool is up through the hole and HOLD IT
THERE ie...DOWN OVER THE MALE DIE. This VERY undesirable one-step punching I
did on a piece of scrap while practicing. Probably had my eyes closed
waiting for the "Bang"? Hearing protection ($17.99 at Home Depot) seems to
keep the "jerk" response down when riveting and hammering? The Gods smile
sometimes!! I do a lighter double hit (Bang-bang) and get what I believe are
straighter sides to the dimple. I also use the de-burring tool on the hole
just before inserting the rivet to be bucked...as per the Orendorff video.
The HS skin came out really smooth. We are all pretty proud of the result
(well, all save one rivet).
So, dimple the stiffeners and frame either together or separate, although
separate is easier. Dimple the skin on the c-frame. Prime, refit and
rivet....follow the directions and read ahead. The 3 skin overlap requires a
longer rivet as clearly spelled out on the drawing.
Regards and POR,
Doug
Van's Air Force - World Wide Wing
www.vansaircraft.net
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Termsof Service (http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/).
(end of quote)