Author: "laurylane16142" <laurylane@...> Time: Wed Dec 19, 2001 7:13 pm PST Link
Anyone have any tips on bending the leading edges on the rudder and
elevators. The 1/2" pipe taped to the skin sounds good however it
leaves a lot for the builder to resolve. The .020 skins are very
difficult to form by hand after rolling the leading area with the
pipe taped to the skin. Any help will be very much appreciated.
Dale.
Author: dc3470@... Time: Wed Dec 19, 2001 8:17 pm PST Link
They make it sound a whole lot easier than it really is-- I fought mine and
was about ready to throw it in the floor and stomp it before finally getting
it done and it wasn't anywhere near a perfect job. After the first one using
the full length of pipe I found it easier using shorter pipe and doing each
side in sections between cutouts. Plus it would help have to someone to help
hold the parts down flat on a table while you turn the pipe. The trick is try
and keep the control surface and the pipe flat on the table while twisting
the pipe to keep from creasing the skin at the spar. Hope this makes since.
My 2 cents.
Good Luck,
David
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Author: "Brian Peterson" <brian@...> Time: Thu Dec 20, 2001 12:45 pm PST Link
I took a piece of 1" thick wall PVC and drilled to the flance and put a cleco in every hole and rolled it that way. It came out very nice. you just have to work your way down by re-clecoing lower once oue bend each flange. ie: cleco to the top small flange only, roll it, then cleco to just the center flange and roll it etc...
>>> "laurylane16142" <laurylane@a...> 12/19/01 10:13PM >>>
Anyone have any tips on bending the leading edges on the rudder and
elevators. The 1/2" pipe taped to the skin sounds good however it
leaves a lot for the builder to resolve. The .020 skins are very
difficult to form by hand after rolling the leading area with the
pipe taped to the skin. Any help will be very much appreciated.
Dale.
Van's Air Force - World Wide Wing
www.vansaircraft.net
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Author: Tom Caruthers <tomcaruthers@...> Time: Thu Dec 20, 2001 1:34 pm PST Link
I used a 1" wooden dowel with duct tape and got
excellent results. I turned the dowel with a pair of
vice-grips. DO NOT try to bend the whole side at
once. Only bend one section at a time. After bending
both sides of a section, I matched the holes by hand
and duct taped the pieces together in a couple of
spots until I could get the clecos put in. I also
drilled and deburred the holes before I riveted the
skin to the rear spar. This made it very easy to
debur the holes.
Good luck
--- Brian Peterson <brian@s...> wrote:
> I took a piece of 1" thick wall PVC and drilled to
> the flance and put a cleco in every hole and rolled
> it that way. It came out very nice. you just have to
> work your way down by re-clecoing lower once oue
> bend each flange. ie: cleco to the top small flange
> only, roll it, then cleco to just the center flange
> and roll it etc...
> >>> "laurylane16142" <laurylane@a...> 12/19/01
> 10:13PM >>>
> Anyone have any tips on bending the leading edges on
> the rudder and
> elevators. The 1/2" pipe taped to the skin sounds
> good however it
> leaves a lot for the builder to resolve. The .020
> skins are very
> difficult to form by hand after rolling the leading
> area with the
> pipe taped to the skin. Any help will be very much
> appreciated.
> Dale.
> Van's Air Force - World Wide Wing
> www.vansaircraft.net
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
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