Author: "dimplemaster" <johnsiebold@...> Time: Thu Dec 20, 2001 7:37 am PST Link
--- In RV7and7A@y..., yabergs4@a... wrote:
> After completing the parts to the empennage and using the
dimensions
> called out in the plans (13/16") for spacing of the elevators with
the
> horizontal stablizer, has anyone (after drilling the bolt holes for
the
> control horns) found that they are REALLY close to the control horn
pipe. The
> plans also indicate that ajacent to the to-be bolt hole there
should be no
> weldding (my part was prefab) yet mine appears to be welded all the
way
> around. I also noticed that the angels on the right and left horn
were
> alittle different (Van's jig must need tweeking). Luckily I can get
a wrench
> on one end of the bolt ( though the center bearing) to tighten so
I'm not to
> worried, but I was just curious?
> I do have the full suggested travels (25 to 30 degrees up and
20 to 25
> degrees down) for the elevator travel.
>
> Thank you for your input in advance, I'm finished with tail
feathers and
> the wing kit will be here approx Jan 7
>
> Tom Y./Camarillo CA.
Tom:
I concur with other responses to you. 13/16 is not right; 15/16
to 1" will position the horn hole sufficiently away from the horn
shaft for bolt/nut rotation, and the counterweigth arms will clear
the HS skins.
What to watch for gauging adjustment is not abundantly clear in
the instructions, considering the importance of the horn hole.
Rework would be a real ---, well, you just don't want to go there.
Since for many of us this is the near the beginning of a first effort
at building an airplane, 'twas for me, sometimes you just don't know
how far ahead to look to avoid pit falls unless well remarked.
With that thought, here's a few other places to be careful.
1. Most of the main spar 3/32 holes are countersunk .225 x 100 to
receive dimples in the overlaying skins, but NOT all. You might
divine this by studying the rivet schedule, which tends to make my
eyes water, but the reason is unstated, so could be missed. The most
forward rivets, upper and lower, in the ribs behind the tank are
flush, needing a .200 x 100 c'sink, not .225 to receive a dimple.
2. Use small diameter short pieces of rod to roll leading edges at
the tips. One long shaft is near impossible to control. Also, my
cradles are rugged enough and sufficiently anchored that I rolled the
edges therein. This let me observe progress, especially what was
going on at the skin/spar intersection, which isn't readily observed
working on the floor as the instructions suggest.
3. The instructions say to make one particular tank support angle
that only has the 1/8 hole, then are silent about what to do with
it. I believe it's a tolerance taker-upper, used in the most inboard
position. Cleco to the tank baffle, then match drill the blank
flange to the pre-punched holes in the spar web.
4. I managed to flute wing nose rib flanges where a hole is match
drilled to the skin (second back from most forward). It's the only
hole not pre-punched in the ribs so you may not see the interference
potential. Guess what! I learned to un-flute! Top and Bottom.
That's it for now. Happy pounding.
John Siebold
7 wings