Author: rsamuelson@... Time: Sat Jan 19, 2002 10:09 am PST Link
With 2 months to wait for the wings, I plan to work on the emp tips.
Can these be screwed on with a nutplate riveted/molded into the glass?
Any other good words of advice?
Thanks for the help
Roy Samuelson
Just bent the trim tab tabs
Author: rsamuelson@... Time: Sat Jan 19, 2002 10:22 am PST Link
Well, I just read the manual where it says you can do this w/ #6 screws.
I'd still take any good advice.
Roy Samuelson
Author: "Paul Besing" <azpilot@...> Time: Sat Jan 19, 2002 9:23 pm PST Link
I wouldn't. There is no need for you to ever remove your fiberglass off of the empennage. Most use pop rivets, and fill them.
Paul Besing
RV-6A N197AB Arizona
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
First Flight 22 July 01
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: rsamuelson@a...
To: RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, January 19, 2002 11:09 AM
Subject: [RV7and7A] fibreglass tips
With 2 months to wait for the wings, I plan to work on the emp tips.
Can these be screwed on with a nutplate riveted/molded into the glass?
Any other good words of advice?
Thanks for the help
Roy Samuelson
Just bent the trim tab tabs
Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
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Van's Air Force - World Wide Wing
www.vansaircraft.net
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Author: "rp10294648" <rpflanze2@...> Time: Sun Jan 20, 2002 6:28 am PST Link
I just finished doing this while I wait for my wing kit (another two
weeks!)
>From the "Been there, done that" file, I'll share my experience.
There are three ways to do it. First is to pop rivet the thing on
and filler over the joint and the rivets. This looks good initially,
but takes more work and eventually cracks and chips the paint. This
is what I did on my -6 and I would not recommend it. BTW, you will
get marked down for this by the judges at Oshkosh, if you care about
that sort of thing.
The second way is to pop rivet it on and fill the pop rivet holes,
but leave the edge alone. This is what most folks do and the results
look good. Some actually don't fill the pop rivet holes at all.
The third way is what you've suggested, using screws. That is what I
did this time around. I just like the look better and I can get the
parts to fit very tight by mounting the tip, duct taping the
aluminum, slathering the tip with microballons and sanding to the
perfect shape. Then peel back the tape, remove the tip and clean it
up, paint and re-mount. I like the way it looks.
BTW, the guy who bought my -6 sure wishes I had made the tips
removable. He wanted to put a VOR antenna up in the top of the VS
but there was no way to do it without destroying the paint and the
tip. He stuck it on the bottom of the fuselage instead.
Randy
--- In RV7and7A@y..., rsamuelson@a... wrote:
> With 2 months to wait for the wings, I plan to work on the emp
tips.
>
> Can these be screwed on with a nutplate riveted/molded into the
glass?
>
> Any other good words of advice?
>
> Thanks for the help
>
> Roy Samuelson
> Just bent the trim tab tabs
Author: "Ellis H Mcgaughy" <ellis.h.mcgaughy-1@...> Time: Mon Jan 21, 2002 6:17 am PST Link
Randy,
What type of screws and nutplates / fasteners did you use for your emp.
tips?
Author: rsamuelson@... Time: Mon Jan 21, 2002 7:41 am PST Link
Drawing 12, section HH shows a method to attach wing tips. I suspect I'll
bond a stip of aluminum to the inside of the tip as shown. Someone wrote that
Author: rsamuelson@... Time: Mon Jan 21, 2002 7:44 am PST Link
Hit the button.....
Anyhow, Look at drawing 12 section HH. Someone wrote that the #6 screws are
overkill. #4 screws should suffice. I can't comment on that.
Roy Samuelson
Wing waiting
Author: "rp10294648" <rpflanze2@...> Time: Mon Jan 21, 2002 11:21 am PST Link
I used #6 nutplates with the floating nut in them and #6 structural
stainless steel screws 1/2" long.
Randy
--- In RV7and7A@y..., "Ellis H Mcgaughy" <ellis.h.mcgaughy-1@u...>
wrote:
>
> Randy,
>
> What type of screws and nutplates / fasteners did you use for your
emp.
> tips?
Author: "rp10294648" <rpflanze2@...> Time: Mon Jan 21, 2002 11:30 am PST Link
I did that and I was WRONG. After looking over the #4s, I decided
that they were not sufficient so I went with the #6 as Van's suggests.
Randy
--- In RV7and7A@y..., rsamuelson@a... wrote:
> Hit the button.....
>
> Anyhow, Look at drawing 12 section HH. Someone wrote that the #6
screws are
> overkill. #4 screws should suffice. I can't comment on that.
>
> Roy Samuelson
> Wing waiting
Author: "Ellis H Mcgaughy" <ellis.h.mcgaughy-1@...> Time: Mon Jan 21, 2002 12:36 pm PST Link
I assume you countersunk the fiberglass tips to accept the #3 size, type
426 nutplate rivets as well as the #6 dimpled hole (in the HS / VS skin)
for the tip attachment screws. This way, all the screw heads would be
flush. If this isn't the case, please let us know. I've read where the
fiberglass really dulls the countersinks .... so you have to dedicate one
to fiberglass only (never to be used again on aluminum). This might seem
to indicate one would also need a #6 sized countersink .... or you could
grind away with a deburring bit.
"rp10294648" <rpflanze2@h...> on 01/21/2002 02:20:42 PM
Please respond to RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com
To: RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com
cc:
Subject: [RV7and7A] Re: fibreglass tips
I used #6 nutplates with the floating nut in them and #6 structural
stainless steel screws 1/2" long.
Randy
--- In RV7and7A@y..., "Ellis H Mcgaughy" <ellis.h.mcgaughy-1@u...>
wrote:
>
> Randy,
>
> What type of screws and nutplates / fasteners did you use for your
emp.
> tips?
Van's Air Force - World Wide Wing
www.vansaircraft.net
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Author: "rp10294648" <rpflanze2@...> Time: Mon Jan 21, 2002 4:06 pm PST Link
Yes, I flush mounted the nutplates on the aluminum strip and
countersunk the fiberglass flange for the #3 rivets to hold on the
aluminum strip. I also countersunk the fiberglass flange to accept
the dimple from the skin. I do this AFTER the nutplate strip is
riveted to the flange. I bought a big countersink bit from Aircraft
Spruce. You just stop when you get to the size you want. I use it
exclusively on all the fiberglass.
--- In RV7and7A@y..., "Ellis H Mcgaughy" <ellis.h.mcgaughy-1@u...>
wrote:
>
> I assume you countersunk the fiberglass tips to accept the #3 size,
type
> 426 nutplate rivets as well as the #6 dimpled hole (in the HS / VS
skin)
> for the tip attachment screws. This way, all the screw heads would
be
> flush. If this isn't the case, please let us know. I've read
where the
> fiberglass really dulls the countersinks .... so you have to
dedicate one
> to fiberglass only (never to be used again on aluminum). This
might seem
> to indicate one would also need a #6 sized countersink .... or you
could
> grind away with a deburring bit.
> "rp10294648" <rpflanze2@h...> on 01/21/2002 02:20:42 PM
>
> Please respond to RV7and7A@y...
>
> To: RV7and7A@y...
> cc:
> Subject: [RV7and7A] Re: fibreglass tips
> I used #6 nutplates with the floating nut in them and #6 structural
> stainless steel screws 1/2" long.
>
> Randy
>
> --- In RV7and7A@y..., "Ellis H Mcgaughy" <ellis.h.mcgaughy-1@u...>
> wrote:
> >
> > Randy,
> >
> > What type of screws and nutplates / fasteners did you use for your
> emp.
> > tips?
> Van's Air Force - World Wide Wing
> www.vansaircraft.net
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/