Author: "Phil Anderton" <pjanderton@...> Time: Mon Jun 9, 2003 4:12 am PDT Link
Dear Rv-7 Builders,
This may seem a bit trivial, but for a new builder it is not. I received my
emp kit a few weeks ago and have just finished setting up my workshop. The
first task in emp construction is preparation of the HS rear spar
reinforcers, two pieces of alloy about 1/8" thick, tapered and pre-drilled.
Mine look a little oxidised and tarnished (grey, dull color). I am tempted
to treat the main surfaces with "wet and dry" emery paper to remove the
tarnish and reveal a fresh alloy surface so the primer will stick better (as
well as the rounding of corners and drilling out of guide holes etc ect..).
Is this a no-no? This is not called for in the plans, but I feel that the
primer might not stick well otherwise.
Sorry if this seems a bit trivial, but I just want to make sure before
taking to the parts with abrasive.
Thanks
Phil Anderton
Sydney
Oztrailia
----- Original Message -----
From: <RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com>
To: <RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, June 09, 2003 7:37 PM
Subject: [RV7Yahoo] Digest Number 848
> Van's Air Force - World Wide Wing
> www.vansaircraft.net
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> There are 8 messages in this issue.
>
> Topics in this digest:
>
> 1. RE: Prioritizing tool needs
> From: BTomm <fvalarm@r...>
> 2. Re: Re: Prioritizing tool needs...The Main Squeeze vs. Tatco???
> From: nskyking55@a...
> 3. What causes "heavy left wing"?
> From: "Peter Costick" <peter9545@y...>
> 4. !@#$#@! Leaking fuel tank.
> From: "Bruce" <wingtime@y...>
> 5. Re: What causes "heavy left wing"?
> From: "Kyle Boatright" <kyle.boatright@a...>
> 6. Re: !@#$#@! Leaking fuel tank.
> From: "rv6boxer" <tonmun@g...>
> 7. Palmolive Reference
> From: "Bob Buckley" <Bwana@P...>
> 8. Re: What causes "heavy left wing"?
> From: "James E. Tyner" <jetyner@b...
> ________________________________________________________________________
> ________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Sat, 7 Jun 2003 17:52:27 -0700
> From: BTomm <fvalarm@r...>
> Subject: RE: Prioritizing tool needs
>
> 1) I use the older "Main squeeze" from Cleveland and like it very much.
It
> is an excellent quality tool and the new version is even better for
> mechanical advantage. I have not had the need for a pneumatic squeezer
> even though I would like to, but not necessary so far as most rivets get
> bucked anyway. I use only one yolk, 3" but will probably buy a 3" or 4"
> thin nose no hole for the tight spots that I have left undone until I get
> one.
>
> 2) I recently bought a good band saw, put a fine tooth blade on and can't
> imagine making all those fuselage pieces without it. A real time saver.
>
> 3) I had a large drill press before the airplane project and find it very
> useful for some holes, like the ones that are in thicker material that
have
> to be right on 90 degrees to the material. A small drill press would
> suffice.
>
> I have a belt sander too but have never found it useful. Don't need it.
> Hope this helps.
>
> Bevan
> RV7A fuse
>
> On Friday, June 06, 2003 7:49 AM, bcollins747_1999 [SMTP:bcollins@m...]
> wrote:
> > << File: ATT00019.html
> ________________________________________________________________________
> ________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Sat, 7 Jun 2003 22:36:06 EDT
> From: nskyking55@a...
> Subject: Re: Re: Prioritizing tool needs...The Main Squeeze vs. Tatco???
>
> I have an Avery pneumatic squeezer & find that it saves me a lot of time
when
> dimpling flanged items like ribs or bulkheads. I mount it in my vise &
> operate the trigger with one hand & feed the part with the other. It's
also great
> for squeezing 4- rivets.The Avery hand squeezer works great for me,it uses
the
> same yokes as the pneumatic squeezer & it's a snap to change yokes.I use
mostly
> the 3",longeron & a 3" no hole. A drill press is also a handy item to
have.
> Probably the biggest timesaver is a belt/ disc sander. You can remove
shear
> marks from edges with a light pass on the belt & then finish on a
scotchbrite
> wheel. When you cut pieces of stock for various parts you can dress the
ends to
> the final dimensions on the disc. These things can be done without but
anything
> that makes the building process faster & easier is a plus. Anything you
feel
> you don't need anymore can be sold when you are further along in your
project.
> ________________________________________________________________________
> ________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Sun, 08 Jun 2003 09:38:39 -0000
> From: "Peter Costick" <peter9545@y...>
> Subject: What causes "heavy left wing"?
>
> Thinking about wings now.
>
> As I write mine are in a truck somewhere in Australia (I like to
> think of them thundering across the Nullibor desert in a huge road
> train - very Australian!). To digress from the question the reason
> they are thundering across the desert is that they were delivered to
> Fremantle, Western Australia instead of Melbourne, Victoria.
>
> Apparently someone somewhere thought that Fremantle is in Australia
> so it can't be far from me in Wonga Park, near Melbourne. Just a
> matter of 2500 miles and five days on the thundering truck. So if you
> are in Oz make sure you state your nearest port when ordering - just
> a suggestion.
>
> Anyway it's not slowed me down as I have been busy around the house
> doing the stuff I put off while building the emp. And reading the
> preview plans for the wings, and all the RVators I've got. One thing
> I have noticed is that more that a couple of times people say
> in 'first flights' that "everything was great but for the usual heavy
> left wing" (or similar words) - does anyone know why the left wing is
> heavy? Can it be avoided; is it to do with the build or something
> extra in the left wing? Or is it just that the builder sits on that
> side of the plane :-)
>
> Just wondering....
> ________________________________________________________________________
> ________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Sun, 08 Jun 2003 17:24:20 -0000
> From: "Bruce" <wingtime@y...>
> Subject: !@#$#@! Leaking fuel tank.
>
> Ok this is going to be a long one... Pressure testing my fuel tank
> using about 18-20" of pressure in my manometer revealed I had a
> leak. Out came the spray bottle with soapy water. I sprayed the
> usual suspect places, Filler cap, inspection plate, senders etc.
> after finding a few leaks around these places I tightened up the
> screws etc. hoping those were the only leaks. (WRONG!) Another
> pressure test and spray session revealed those leaks fixed but
> several rivets along the skin/rear baffle joint were leaking from
> under the manufactured heads. There were no leaks along any joints
> or shop heads of the rivets. Just the Countersunk heads of the rear
> baffle/skin joint. UGGGHHH!!!!
>
> Throughout construction I was confident about the tank being well
> sealed. That is untill I was done with putting on the rear baffle
> following Van's instructions. I was very suspect about the seal
> along the flange of the rear baffle to the tank skin. Van's suggests
> using a bead of proseal less than 3/16 applied to the inside of the
> skin from the rivets forward cautioning not to use to much sealant
> here. I did this and I didn't feel too cozy about it. I felt it
> just wasn't enough and I should have buttered this area up with
> proseal like the rest of the tank. I think I was right.
>
> I drilled out the leaky rivets, blopped proseal in the rivet holes
> and set new rivets. waited a few days and tested the tank again.
> The rivets I repaired didn't leak. But I found more that were! !#$!
> @#$! So I drilled, prosealed, and riveted again. Waited and tested
> again. Another @#$%#! slow leak.. The soapy water revealed four
> more rivets that are still leaking. At this point I know I can
> proably get these rivets to stop leaking but I'm not to comfortable
> they will stay that way. The last thing I want is a painted wing
> with a leaking tank!
>
> I know taking off the rear baffle would be a total nightmare. And I
> don't want to do that since the rib/Z- brackets and ends ribs are
> nice and airtight. What I was thinking of doing was to remove all
> the rivets joining the rear baffle flange to the skin. Pry the skin
> away from the flange and inject proseal inbetween with a syringe and
> close it back up again.
>
> My question is should I take this drastic step to solve these leaks?
> Or does someone else have a better suggestion?
>
> Thanks!
> Bruce Smith
> Wings/ Tanks
> ________________________________________________________________________
> ________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 5
> Date: Sun, 8 Jun 2003 16:04:21 -0400
> From: "Kyle Boatright" <kyle.boatright@a...>
> Subject: Re: What causes "heavy left wing"?
>
> Torque... These are little airplanes swinging aggressive prop's with
fairly
> powerful engines.
>
> KB
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Peter Costick" <peter9545@y...>
> To: <RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Sunday, June 08, 2003 5:38 AM
> Subject: [RV7Yahoo] What causes "heavy left wing"?
> > Thinking about wings now.
> >
> > As I write mine are in a truck somewhere in Australia (I like to
> > think of them thundering across the Nullibor desert in a huge road
> > train - very Australian!). To digress from the question the reason
> > they are thundering across the desert is that they were delivered to
> > Fremantle, Western Australia instead of Melbourne, Victoria.
> >
> > Apparently someone somewhere thought that Fremantle is in Australia
> > so it can't be far from me in Wonga Park, near Melbourne. Just a
> > matter of 2500 miles and five days on the thundering truck. So if you
> > are in Oz make sure you state your nearest port when ordering - just
> > a suggestion.
> >
> > Anyway it's not slowed me down as I have been busy around the house
> > doing the stuff I put off while building the emp. And reading the
> > preview plans for the wings, and all the RVators I've got. One thing
> > I have noticed is that more that a couple of times people say
> > in 'first flights' that "everything was great but for the usual heavy
> > left wing" (or similar words) - does anyone know why the left wing is
> > heavy? Can it be avoided; is it to do with the build or something
> > extra in the left wing? Or is it just that the builder sits on that
> > side of the plane :-)
> >
> > Just wondering....
> > Van's Air Force - World Wide Wing
> > www.vansaircraft.net
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> ________________________________________________________________________
> ________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 6
> Date: Sun, 08 Jun 2003 20:19:19 -0000
> From: "rv6boxer" <tonmun@g...>
> Subject: Re: !@#$#@! Leaking fuel tank.
>
> Ref: Leaking tanks
>
> Bruce
>
> I'm not sure where your tank is leaking along the rear baffle. If it
> is inboard, it might be possible to remove the tank cover (that
> contains the sending unit) and gain access to the rear baffle from
> inside. A fillet of pro-seal along the top and base of the baffle
> might solve the problem.
> As frustrating as it is, you're right to fix these now. Leaky tanks
> are ugly, smelly, dangerous, and usually get worse with time.
> Tony Munday
> www.SafeAir1.com
> ________________________________________________________________________
> ________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 7
> Date: Sun, 8 Jun 2003 18:30:10 -0600
> From: "Bob Buckley" <Bwana@P...>
> Subject: Palmolive Reference
> Has anyone run across a reference to using Palmolive Dishwashing Liquid? I
> think it referred to use in an air compressor moisture filter for oil
and/or
> dust removal. I've run across it a couple times and can't find it again.
> I've looked in my RVators, 21 Years of the RVator, searched these
archives,
> and my construction manual to no avail.
>
> Thanks.
> Bob Buckley
> Colorado Springs
> ________________________________________________________________________
> ________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 8
> Date: Mon, 09 Jun 2003 00:43:01 -0000
> From: "James E. Tyner" <jetyner@b...>
> Subject: Re: What causes "heavy left wing"?
>
> Or maybe even a heavy "left pilot"!
> ________________________________________________________________________
> ________________________________________________________________________
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Author: Simon Paul <scpaul@...> Time: Mon Jun 9, 2003 5:18 am PDT Link
Wow, you lucky ozzie. Got the parts pre-drilled and tapered !! Mine were
just a couple of angles in need of all the work.
And yes, go ahead and take all the oxidation away. Make 'm shine and then
prime and paint the shine away !
Happy building !
Simon Paul
PH-SJP
The Netherlands
----- Original Message -----
From: Phil Anderton <pjanderton@o...>
To: <RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, June 09, 2003 1:13 PM
Subject: [RV7Yahoo] HS rear spar reinforcers
> Dear Rv-7 Builders,
> This may seem a bit trivial, but for a new builder it is not. I received
my
> emp kit a few weeks ago and have just finished setting up my workshop. The
> first task in emp construction is preparation of the HS rear spar
> reinforcers, two pieces of alloy about 1/8" thick, tapered and
pre-drilled.
> Mine look a little oxidised and tarnished (grey, dull color). I am tempted
> to treat the main surfaces with "wet and dry" emery paper to remove the
> tarnish and reveal a fresh alloy surface so the primer will stick better
(as
> well as the rounding of corners and drilling out of guide holes etc
ect..).
> Is this a no-no? This is not called for in the plans, but I feel that the
> primer might not stick well otherwise.
> Sorry if this seems a bit trivial, but I just want to make sure before
> taking to the parts with abrasive.
>
> Thanks
>
> Phil Anderton
>
> Sydney
> Oztrailia
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com>
> To: <RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Monday, June 09, 2003 7:37 PM
> Subject: [RV7Yahoo] Digest Number 848
> > Van's Air Force - World Wide Wing
> > www.vansaircraft.net
> > ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> >
> > There are 8 messages in this issue.
> >
> > Topics in this digest:
> >
> > 1. RE: Prioritizing tool needs
> > From: BTomm <fvalarm@r...>
> > 2. Re: Re: Prioritizing tool needs...The Main Squeeze vs. Tatco???
> > From: nskyking55@a...
> > 3. What causes "heavy left wing"?
> > From: "Peter Costick" <peter9545@y...>
> > 4. !@#$#@! Leaking fuel tank.
> > From: "Bruce" <wingtime@y...>
> > 5. Re: What causes "heavy left wing"?
> > From: "Kyle Boatright" <kyle.boatright@a...>
> > 6. Re: !@#$#@! Leaking fuel tank.
> > From: "rv6boxer" <tonmun@g...>
> > 7. Palmolive Reference
> > From: "Bob Buckley" <Bwana@P...>
> > 8. Re: What causes "heavy left wing"?
> > From: "James E. Tyner" <jetyner@b...
> > ________________________________________________________________________
> > ________________________________________________________________________
> >
> > Message: 1
> > Date: Sat, 7 Jun 2003 17:52:27 -0700
> > From: BTomm <fvalarm@r...>
> > Subject: RE: Prioritizing tool needs
> >
> > 1) I use the older "Main squeeze" from Cleveland and like it very much.
> It
> > is an excellent quality tool and the new version is even better for
> > mechanical advantage. I have not had the need for a pneumatic squeezer
> > even though I would like to, but not necessary so far as most rivets get
> > bucked anyway. I use only one yolk, 3" but will probably buy a 3" or 4"
> > thin nose no hole for the tight spots that I have left undone until I
get
> > one.
> >
> > 2) I recently bought a good band saw, put a fine tooth blade on and
can't
> > imagine making all those fuselage pieces without it. A real time saver.
> >
> > 3) I had a large drill press before the airplane project and find it
very
> > useful for some holes, like the ones that are in thicker material that
> have
> > to be right on 90 degrees to the material. A small drill press would
> > suffice.
> >
> > I have a belt sander too but have never found it useful. Don't need it.
> > Hope this helps.
> >
> > Bevan
> > RV7A fuse
> >
> > On Friday, June 06, 2003 7:49 AM, bcollins747_1999
[SMTP:bcollins@m...]
> > wrote:
> > > << File: ATT00019.html
> > ________________________________________________________________________
> > ________________________________________________________________________
> >
> > Message: 2
> > Date: Sat, 7 Jun 2003 22:36:06 EDT
> > From: nskyking55@a...
> > Subject: Re: Re: Prioritizing tool needs...The Main Squeeze vs. Tatco???
> >
> > I have an Avery pneumatic squeezer & find that it saves me a lot of time
> when
> > dimpling flanged items like ribs or bulkheads. I mount it in my vise &
> > operate the trigger with one hand & feed the part with the other. It's
> also great
> > for squeezing 4- rivets.The Avery hand squeezer works great for me,it
uses
> the
> > same yokes as the pneumatic squeezer & it's a snap to change yokes.I use
> mostly
> > the 3",longeron & a 3" no hole. A drill press is also a handy item to
> have.
> > Probably the biggest timesaver is a belt/ disc sander. You can remove
> shear
> > marks from edges with a light pass on the belt & then finish on a
> scotchbrite
> > wheel. When you cut pieces of stock for various parts you can dress the
> ends to
> > the final dimensions on the disc. These things can be done without but
> anything
> > that makes the building process faster & easier is a plus. Anything you
> feel
> > you don't need anymore can be sold when you are further along in your
> project.
> > ________________________________________________________________________
> > ________________________________________________________________________
> >
> > Message: 3
> > Date: Sun, 08 Jun 2003 09:38:39 -0000
> > From: "Peter Costick" <peter9545@y...>
> > Subject: What causes "heavy left wing"?
> >
> > Thinking about wings now.
> >
> > As I write mine are in a truck somewhere in Australia (I like to
> > think of them thundering across the Nullibor desert in a huge road
> > train - very Australian!). To digress from the question the reason
> > they are thundering across the desert is that they were delivered to
> > Fremantle, Western Australia instead of Melbourne, Victoria.
> >
> > Apparently someone somewhere thought that Fremantle is in Australia
> > so it can't be far from me in Wonga Park, near Melbourne. Just a
> > matter of 2500 miles and five days on the thundering truck. So if you
> > are in Oz make sure you state your nearest port when ordering - just
> > a suggestion.
> >
> > Anyway it's not slowed me down as I have been busy around the house
> > doing the stuff I put off while building the emp. And reading the
> > preview plans for the wings, and all the RVators I've got. One thing
> > I have noticed is that more that a couple of times people say
> > in 'first flights' that "everything was great but for the usual heavy
> > left wing" (or similar words) - does anyone know why the left wing is
> > heavy? Can it be avoided; is it to do with the build or something
> > extra in the left wing? Or is it just that the builder sits on that
> > side of the plane :-)
> >
> > Just wondering....
> > ________________________________________________________________________
> > ________________________________________________________________________
> >
> > Message: 4
> > Date: Sun, 08 Jun 2003 17:24:20 -0000
> > From: "Bruce" <wingtime@y...>
> > Subject: !@#$#@! Leaking fuel tank.
> >
> > Ok this is going to be a long one... Pressure testing my fuel tank
> > using about 18-20" of pressure in my manometer revealed I had a
> > leak. Out came the spray bottle with soapy water. I sprayed the
> > usual suspect places, Filler cap, inspection plate, senders etc.
> > after finding a few leaks around these places I tightened up the
> > screws etc. hoping those were the only leaks. (WRONG!) Another
> > pressure test and spray session revealed those leaks fixed but
> > several rivets along the skin/rear baffle joint were leaking from
> > under the manufactured heads. There were no leaks along any joints
> > or shop heads of the rivets. Just the Countersunk heads of the rear
> > baffle/skin joint. UGGGHHH!!!!
> >
> > Throughout construction I was confident about the tank being well
> > sealed. That is untill I was done with putting on the rear baffle
> > following Van's instructions. I was very suspect about the seal
> > along the flange of the rear baffle to the tank skin. Van's suggests
> > using a bead of proseal less than 3/16 applied to the inside of the
> > skin from the rivets forward cautioning not to use to much sealant
> > here. I did this and I didn't feel too cozy about it. I felt it
> > just wasn't enough and I should have buttered this area up with
> > proseal like the rest of the tank. I think I was right.
> >
> > I drilled out the leaky rivets, blopped proseal in the rivet holes
> > and set new rivets. waited a few days and tested the tank again.
> > The rivets I repaired didn't leak. But I found more that were! !#$!
> > @#$! So I drilled, prosealed, and riveted again. Waited and tested
> > again. Another @#$%#! slow leak.. The soapy water revealed four
> > more rivets that are still leaking. At this point I know I can
> > proably get these rivets to stop leaking but I'm not to comfortable
> > they will stay that way. The last thing I want is a painted wing
> > with a leaking tank!
> >
> > I know taking off the rear baffle would be a total nightmare. And I
> > don't want to do that since the rib/Z- brackets and ends ribs are
> > nice and airtight. What I was thinking of doing was to remove all
> > the rivets joining the rear baffle flange to the skin. Pry the skin
> > away from the flange and inject proseal inbetween with a syringe and
> > close it back up again.
> >
> > My question is should I take this drastic step to solve these leaks?
> > Or does someone else have a better suggestion?
> >
> > Thanks!
> > Bruce Smith
> > Wings/ Tanks
> > ________________________________________________________________________
> > ________________________________________________________________________
> >
> > Message: 5
> > Date: Sun, 8 Jun 2003 16:04:21 -0400
> > From: "Kyle Boatright" <kyle.boatright@a...>
> > Subject: Re: What causes "heavy left wing"?
> >
> > Torque... These are little airplanes swinging aggressive prop's with
> fairly
> > powerful engines.
> >
> > KB
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Peter Costick" <peter9545@y...>
> > To: <RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com>
> > Sent: Sunday, June 08, 2003 5:38 AM
> > Subject: [RV7Yahoo] What causes "heavy left wing"?
> > > Thinking about wings now.
> > >
> > > As I write mine are in a truck somewhere in Australia (I like to
> > > think of them thundering across the Nullibor desert in a huge road
> > > train - very Australian!). To digress from the question the reason
> > > they are thundering across the desert is that they were delivered to
> > > Fremantle, Western Australia instead of Melbourne, Victoria.
> > >
> > > Apparently someone somewhere thought that Fremantle is in Australia
> > > so it can't be far from me in Wonga Park, near Melbourne. Just a
> > > matter of 2500 miles and five days on the thundering truck. So if you
> > > are in Oz make sure you state your nearest port when ordering - just
> > > a suggestion.
> > >
> > > Anyway it's not slowed me down as I have been busy around the house
> > > doing the stuff I put off while building the emp. And reading the
> > > preview plans for the wings, and all the RVators I've got. One thing
> > > I have noticed is that more that a couple of times people say
> > > in 'first flights' that "everything was great but for the usual heavy
> > > left wing" (or similar words) - does anyone know why the left wing is
> > > heavy? Can it be avoided; is it to do with the build or something
> > > extra in the left wing? Or is it just that the builder sits on that
> > > side of the plane :-)
> > >
> > > Just wondering....
> > > Van's Air Force - World Wide Wing
> > > www.vansaircraft.net
> > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> > ________________________________________________________________________
> > ________________________________________________________________________
> >
> > Message: 6
> > Date: Sun, 08 Jun 2003 20:19:19 -0000
> > From: "rv6boxer" <tonmun@g...>
> > Subject: Re: !@#$#@! Leaking fuel tank.
> >
> > Ref: Leaking tanks
> >
> > Bruce
> >
> > I'm not sure where your tank is leaking along the rear baffle. If it
> > is inboard, it might be possible to remove the tank cover (that
> > contains the sending unit) and gain access to the rear baffle from
> > inside. A fillet of pro-seal along the top and base of the baffle
> > might solve the problem.
> > As frustrating as it is, you're right to fix these now. Leaky tanks
> > are ugly, smelly, dangerous, and usually get worse with time.
> > Tony Munday
> > www.SafeAir1.com
> > ________________________________________________________________________
> > ________________________________________________________________________
> >
> > Message: 7
> > Date: Sun, 8 Jun 2003 18:30:10 -0600
> > From: "Bob Buckley" <Bwana@P...>
> > Subject: Palmolive Reference
> > Has anyone run across a reference to using Palmolive Dishwashing Liquid?
I
> > think it referred to use in an air compressor moisture filter for oil
> and/or
> > dust removal. I've run across it a couple times and can't find it again.
> > I've looked in my RVators, 21 Years of the RVator, searched these
> archives,
> > and my construction manual to no avail.
> >
> > Thanks.
> > Bob Buckley
> > Colorado Springs
> > ________________________________________________________________________
> > ________________________________________________________________________
> >
> > Message: 8
> > Date: Mon, 09 Jun 2003 00:43:01 -0000
> > From: "James E. Tyner" <jetyner@b...>
> > Subject: Re: What causes "heavy left wing"?
> >
> > Or maybe even a heavy "left pilot"!
> > ________________________________________________________________________
> > ________________________________________________________________________
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> Van's Air Force - World Wide Wing
> www.vansaircraft.net
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
> ================================================================
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> Op http://www.planet.nl/evs staat een verwijzing naar de actuele lijst
waar op wordt gecontroleerd.
Author: "vbpiper" <vbpiper@...> Time: Mon Jun 9, 2003 9:43 am PDT Link
Phil,
An article in a recent issue of EAA Sport Aviation recommended
against using emery cloth on aluminum because of possible corrosion
concerns in the future (particles from the cloth becoming embedded in
the surface?). They suggested aluminum oxide abrasives instead.
I don't know how much of a concern this would be, but I just
thought I would mention it.
Good luck.
Ward
wings
Author: "Bruce" <wingtime@...> Time: Mon Jun 9, 2003 9:43 am PDT Link
Phil,
Those bars along with most of the heavier parts are not Alclad so you
don't have to worry about sanding the protective coating off of
them. I belive I sanded mine with a fine paper or a scotchbrite pad
before priming. Scuffing parts with a fine sandpaper (320 or finer)
or a scotchbrite pad is a good idea for all the parts before
priming. But don't get carried away on the sheetmetal parts. you
don't want to sand off the alclad! Also wiping off the parts with a
precleaner after sanding helps alot too. This will get any grease
from your fingers off of the parts!
good luck!
Bruce