Author: "c182pilot" <c182pilot@...> Time: Tue Feb 3, 2004 3:35 am PST Link
I am danger close to riveting the skins to the skeleton. Just a little
more primer, a couple of rivets on the skeleton assy and I hope to get
the skins on this week.
Regarding the trailing edge, does anyone have a method they would
recommend to get it straight? I'd love to hear it.
This is a part of the emp project that I have not been looking forward
to doing. I like straight, but I'm also accident prone. :o)
Last question....the skins fit very tight on each side of the rudder
horn. I feel that I need to widen the slots in the skin in order to
relieve the tension a bit. The skins are really thin, and I am not
sure of a good method to widen the slots in this thin stuff. Any advice?
Ben Shaw
NM
Author: "Mitchell Lock" <CVLock@...> Time: Tue Feb 3, 2004 5:55 am PST Link
Ben,
I've just completed riveting the trailing edge of the rudder and it has come out very well. What I did is this:
Van's manual says to either proseal or epoxy the edges and wedge piece together before riveting. I chose to use the epoxy with cotton flock instead of proseal. Sets real hard, sticks real well. Enough said. But to keep the edges straight while curing, I used two 1/2" x 1/2" x 050 aluminum angle I bought at Lowe's. I used one of the rudder skins as a template to drill holes in the angles corresponding to the holes in the trailing edge. Once the rudder skins and wedge were assembled with the epoxy/flock applied, I clecoed the trailing edges together with one length of angle on each side of the trailing edge. I put a clecoe in each hole, alternating one side and the other. With the rigidity of the two angles, it kept the edge absolutely straight. I let it set up for a day. After removing the aluminum angles, I cleaned out the holes where the epoxy had leached into. Then I used a piece of 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" x 125" steel angle (someone else's idea I got off a website), drilled every other hole in it corresponding to the trailing edge holes, clamped it to my work table, clecoed the trailing edge at every other hole and used it as a plate for back riveting. The whole process worked like a champ. I have a very straight trailing edge.
Mitch Lock
----- Original Message -----
From: c182pilot
To: RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, February 02, 2004 11:57 PM
Subject: [RV7Yahoo] Rudder Trailing Edge
I am danger close to riveting the skins to the skeleton. Just a little
more primer, a couple of rivets on the skeleton assy and I hope to get
the skins on this week.
Regarding the trailing edge, does anyone have a method they would
recommend to get it straight? I'd love to hear it.
This is a part of the emp project that I have not been looking forward
to doing. I like straight, but I'm also accident prone. :o)
Last question....the skins fit very tight on each side of the rudder
horn. I feel that I need to widen the slots in the skin in order to
relieve the tension a bit. The skins are really thin, and I am not
sure of a good method to widen the slots in this thin stuff. Any advice?
Ben Shaw
NM
Van's Air Force - World Wide Wing
www.vansaircraft.net
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Author: "Larry Driver" <ldriver@...> Time: Tue Feb 3, 2004 6:52 am PST Link
Ben,
I ended up using ProSeal to bond the wedge to both skins and clecoed
it together with aluminum angle on both sides. The key was to let it
set up for a long enough time, in my case three days. A friend of
mine building another started the riveting while the ProSeal was
still a littl soft and got some waviness on the edge. My rudder edge
turned out beautiful. I do have to give credit to a friend for
helping with the riveting. He had done a number of them and knew
what he was doing.
Larry
--- In RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com, "c182pilot" <c182pilot@y...> wrote:
> I am danger close to riveting the skins to the skeleton. Just a
little
> more primer, a couple of rivets on the skeleton assy and I hope to
get
> the skins on this week.
>
> Regarding the trailing edge, does anyone have a method they would
> recommend to get it straight? I'd love to hear it.
>
> This is a part of the emp project that I have not been looking
forward
> to doing. I like straight, but I'm also accident prone. :o)
>
> Last question....the skins fit very tight on each side of the
rudder
> horn. I feel that I need to widen the slots in the skin in order to
> relieve the tension a bit. The skins are really thin, and I am not
> sure of a good method to widen the slots in this thin stuff. Any
advice?
>
> Ben Shaw
> NM
Author: "Rick and Lori Threet" <warriorthreet@...> Time: Wed Feb 4, 2004 9:06 am PST Link
We used Proseal and let it dry real good before riveting. Bought
some aluminum window framing material from local hardware store
(stiff and straight). Rudder came out nice and straight.
http://our-rv7a.com/empennage/100402Empennage.htm
Rick and Lori Threet
(fairings, empennage tips, maybe run motor later this month)
--- In RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com, "c182pilot" <c182pilot@y...> wrote:
> I am danger close to riveting the skins to the skeleton. Just a
little
> more primer, a couple of rivets on the skeleton assy and I hope to
get
> the skins on this week.
>
> Regarding the trailing edge, does anyone have a method they would
> recommend to get it straight? I'd love to hear it.
>
> This is a part of the emp project that I have not been looking
forward
> to doing. I like straight, but I'm also accident prone. :o)
>
> Last question....the skins fit very tight on each side of the rudder
> horn. I feel that I need to widen the slots in the skin in order to
> relieve the tension a bit. The skins are really thin, and I am not
> sure of a good method to widen the slots in this thin stuff. Any
advice?
>
> Ben Shaw
> NM
Author: "c182pilot" <c182pilot@...> Time: Thu Feb 5, 2004 2:55 am PST Link
Mitchell,
What type of epoxy did you use? i.e. 20 minute?
I am a good distance from building the fuel tanks, and I hate to
purchase Proseal just for the AEX wedge.
Ben
--- In RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com, "Mitchell Lock" <CVLock@m...> wrote:
> Ben,
>
> I've just completed riveting the trailing edge of the rudder and it
has come out very well. What I did is this:
>
> Van's manual says to either proseal or epoxy the edges and wedge
piece together before riveting. I chose to use the epoxy with cotton
flock instead of proseal. Sets real hard, sticks real well. Enough
said. But to keep the edges straight while curing, I used two 1/2" x
1/2" x 050 aluminum angle I bought at Lowe's. I used one of the
rudder skins as a template to drill holes in the angles corresponding
to the holes in the trailing edge. Once the rudder skins and wedge
were assembled with the epoxy/flock applied, I clecoed the trailing
edges together with one length of angle on each side of the trailing
edge. I put a clecoe in each hole, alternating one side and the
other. With the rigidity of the two angles, it kept the edge
absolutely straight. I let it set up for a day. After removing the
aluminum angles, I cleaned out the holes where the epoxy had leached
into. Then I used a piece of 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" x 125" steel angle
(someone else's idea I got off a website), drilled every other hole in
it corresponding to the trailing edge holes, clamped it to my work
table, clecoed the trailing edge at every other hole and used it as a
plate for back riveting. The whole process worked like a champ. I
have a very straight trailing edge.
>
> Mitch Lock
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: c182pilot
> To: RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Monday, February 02, 2004 11:57 PM
> Subject: [RV7Yahoo] Rudder Trailing Edge
> I am danger close to riveting the skins to the skeleton. Just a little
> more primer, a couple of rivets on the skeleton assy and I hope to get
> the skins on this week.
>
> Regarding the trailing edge, does anyone have a method they would
> recommend to get it straight? I'd love to hear it.
>
> This is a part of the emp project that I have not been looking forward
> to doing. I like straight, but I'm also accident prone. :o)
>
> Last question....the skins fit very tight on each side of the rudder
> horn. I feel that I need to widen the slots in the skin in order to
> relieve the tension a bit. The skins are really thin, and I am not
> sure of a good method to widen the slots in this thin stuff. Any
advice?
>
> Ben Shaw
> NM
> Van's Air Force - World Wide Wing
> www.vansaircraft.net
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
> a.. To visit your group on the web, go to:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/RV7and7A/
>
> b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> RV7and7A-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
Service.
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Author: "Mitchell Lock" <CVLock@...> Time: Thu Feb 5, 2004 12:40 pm PST Link
Ben,
I used West Systems epoxy (just like everyone else does, or should) with the fast hardener. Pot life is at least 30 minutes. Best I've ever used. You can get it thru just about any aircraft supply house or at your local boat supply store. But again, I added cotton flocked fiber (not micro balloons) to the mix. This makes a great adhesive. The epoxy by itself may be enough, but the fibers really make it stick.
Good luck,
Mitch
----- Original Message -----
From: c182pilot
To: RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, February 04, 2004 10:00 PM
Subject: Re: [RV7Yahoo] Rudder Trailing Edge
Mitchell,
What type of epoxy did you use? i.e. 20 minute?
I am a good distance from building the fuel tanks, and I hate to
purchase Proseal just for the AEX wedge.
Ben
--- In RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com, "Mitchell Lock" <CVLock@m...> wrote:
> Ben,
>
> I've just completed riveting the trailing edge of the rudder and it
has come out very well. What I did is this:
>
> Van's manual says to either proseal or epoxy the edges and wedge
piece together before riveting. I chose to use the epoxy with cotton
flock instead of proseal. Sets real hard, sticks real well. Enough
said. But to keep the edges straight while curing, I used two 1/2" x
1/2" x 050 aluminum angle I bought at Lowe's. I used one of the
rudder skins as a template to drill holes in the angles corresponding
to the holes in the trailing edge. Once the rudder skins and wedge
were assembled with the epoxy/flock applied, I clecoed the trailing
edges together with one length of angle on each side of the trailing
edge. I put a clecoe in each hole, alternating one side and the
other. With the rigidity of the two angles, it kept the edge
absolutely straight. I let it set up for a day. After removing the
aluminum angles, I cleaned out the holes where the epoxy had leached
into. Then I used a piece of 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" x 125" steel angle
(someone else's idea I got off a website), drilled every other hole in
it corresponding to the trailing edge holes, clamped it to my work
table, clecoed the trailing edge at every other hole and used it as a
plate for back riveting. The whole process worked like a champ. I
have a very straight trailing edge.
>
> Mitch Lock
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: c182pilot
> To: RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Monday, February 02, 2004 11:57 PM
> Subject: [RV7Yahoo] Rudder Trailing Edge
> I am danger close to riveting the skins to the skeleton. Just a little
> more primer, a couple of rivets on the skeleton assy and I hope to get
> the skins on this week.
>
> Regarding the trailing edge, does anyone have a method they would
> recommend to get it straight? I'd love to hear it.
>
> This is a part of the emp project that I have not been looking forward
> to doing. I like straight, but I'm also accident prone. :o)
>
> Last question....the skins fit very tight on each side of the rudder
> horn. I feel that I need to widen the slots in the skin in order to
> relieve the tension a bit. The skins are really thin, and I am not
> sure of a good method to widen the slots in this thin stuff. Any
advice?
>
> Ben Shaw
> NM
> Van's Air Force - World Wide Wing
> www.vansaircraft.net
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
> a.. To visit your group on the web, go to:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/RV7and7A/
>
> b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> RV7and7A-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
Service.
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Van's Air Force - World Wide Wing
www.vansaircraft.net
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links
a.. To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/RV7and7A/
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RV7and7A-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Author: "c182pilot" <c182pilot@...> Time: Sat Feb 7, 2004 4:28 am PST Link
Mitch,
Is the cost for the West Systems epoxy close to the cost of a tube of
proseal? I heard you can purchase a tube of proseal for about $14.00.
Ben
--- In RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com, "Mitchell Lock" <CVLock@m...> wrote:
> Ben,
>
> I used West Systems epoxy (just like everyone else does, or should)
with the fast hardener. Pot life is at least 30 minutes. Best I've
ever used. You can get it thru just about any aircraft supply house
or at your local boat supply store. But again, I added cotton flocked
fiber (not micro balloons) to the mix. This makes a great adhesive.
The epoxy by itself may be enough, but the fibers really make it stick.
>
> Good luck,
>
> Mitch
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: c182pilot
> To: RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Wednesday, February 04, 2004 10:00 PM
> Subject: Re: [RV7Yahoo] Rudder Trailing Edge
> Mitchell,
>
> What type of epoxy did you use? i.e. 20 minute?
>
> I am a good distance from building the fuel tanks, and I hate to
> purchase Proseal just for the AEX wedge.
>
> Ben
> --- In RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com, "Mitchell Lock" <CVLock@m...> wrote:
> > Ben,
> >
> > I've just completed riveting the trailing edge of the rudder and it
> has come out very well. What I did is this:
> >
> > Van's manual says to either proseal or epoxy the edges and wedge
> piece together before riveting. I chose to use the epoxy with cotton
> flock instead of proseal. Sets real hard, sticks real well. Enough
> said. But to keep the edges straight while curing, I used two 1/2" x
> 1/2" x 050 aluminum angle I bought at Lowe's. I used one of the
> rudder skins as a template to drill holes in the angles corresponding
> to the holes in the trailing edge. Once the rudder skins and wedge
> were assembled with the epoxy/flock applied, I clecoed the trailing
> edges together with one length of angle on each side of the trailing
> edge. I put a clecoe in each hole, alternating one side and the
> other. With the rigidity of the two angles, it kept the edge
> absolutely straight. I let it set up for a day. After removing the
> aluminum angles, I cleaned out the holes where the epoxy had leached
> into. Then I used a piece of 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" x 125" steel angle
> (someone else's idea I got off a website), drilled every other hole in
> it corresponding to the trailing edge holes, clamped it to my work
> table, clecoed the trailing edge at every other hole and used it as a
> plate for back riveting. The whole process worked like a champ. I
> have a very straight trailing edge.
> >
> > Mitch Lock
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: c182pilot
> > To: RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com
> > Sent: Monday, February 02, 2004 11:57 PM
> > Subject: [RV7Yahoo] Rudder Trailing Edge
> > I am danger close to riveting the skins to the skeleton. Just
a little
> > more primer, a couple of rivets on the skeleton assy and I
hope to get
> > the skins on this week.
> >
> > Regarding the trailing edge, does anyone have a method they would
> > recommend to get it straight? I'd love to hear it.
> >
> > This is a part of the emp project that I have not been looking
forward
> > to doing. I like straight, but I'm also accident prone. :o)
> >
> > Last question....the skins fit very tight on each side of the
rudder
> > horn. I feel that I need to widen the slots in the skin in
order to
> > relieve the tension a bit. The skins are really thin, and I am not
> > sure of a good method to widen the slots in this thin stuff. Any
> advice?
> >
> > Ben Shaw
> > NM
> > Van's Air Force - World Wide Wing
> > www.vansaircraft.net
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> > a.. To visit your group on the web, go to:
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/RV7and7A/
> >
> > b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > RV7and7A-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> > c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
> Service.
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> Van's Air Force - World Wide Wing
> www.vansaircraft.net
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
> a.. To visit your group on the web, go to:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/RV7and7A/
>
> b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> RV7and7A-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
Service.
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Author: "Mitchell Lock" <CVLock@...> Time: Sat Feb 7, 2004 6:07 pm PST Link
It's comparable in price. Maybe a bit more for the epoxy in pint cans. But, you only have to mix what you need to use. The proseal tube is totally mixed and what you don't use gets thrown away. Plus, you're gonna need the epoxy for the glass layups later on.
Mitch
----- Original Message -----
From: c182pilot
To: RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, February 06, 2004 11:58 PM
Subject: Re: [RV7Yahoo] Rudder Trailing Edge
Mitch,
Is the cost for the West Systems epoxy close to the cost of a tube of
proseal? I heard you can purchase a tube of proseal for about $14.00.
Ben
--- In RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com, "Mitchell Lock" <CVLock@m...> wrote:
> Ben,
>
> I used West Systems epoxy (just like everyone else does, or should)
with the fast hardener. Pot life is at least 30 minutes. Best I've
ever used. You can get it thru just about any aircraft supply house
or at your local boat supply store. But again, I added cotton flocked
fiber (not micro balloons) to the mix. This makes a great adhesive.
The epoxy by itself may be enough, but the fibers really make it stick.
>
> Good luck,
>
> Mitch
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: c182pilot
> To: RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Wednesday, February 04, 2004 10:00 PM
> Subject: Re: [RV7Yahoo] Rudder Trailing Edge
> Mitchell,
>
> What type of epoxy did you use? i.e. 20 minute?
>
> I am a good distance from building the fuel tanks, and I hate to
> purchase Proseal just for the AEX wedge.
>
> Ben
> --- In RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com, "Mitchell Lock" <CVLock@m...> wrote:
> > Ben,
> >
> > I've just completed riveting the trailing edge of the rudder and it
> has come out very well. What I did is this:
> >
> > Van's manual says to either proseal or epoxy the edges and wedge
> piece together before riveting. I chose to use the epoxy with cotton
> flock instead of proseal. Sets real hard, sticks real well. Enough
> said. But to keep the edges straight while curing, I used two 1/2" x
> 1/2" x 050 aluminum angle I bought at Lowe's. I used one of the
> rudder skins as a template to drill holes in the angles corresponding
> to the holes in the trailing edge. Once the rudder skins and wedge
> were assembled with the epoxy/flock applied, I clecoed the trailing
> edges together with one length of angle on each side of the trailing
> edge. I put a clecoe in each hole, alternating one side and the
> other. With the rigidity of the two angles, it kept the edge
> absolutely straight. I let it set up for a day. After removing the
> aluminum angles, I cleaned out the holes where the epoxy had leached
> into. Then I used a piece of 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" x 125" steel angle
> (someone else's idea I got off a website), drilled every other hole in
> it corresponding to the trailing edge holes, clamped it to my work
> table, clecoed the trailing edge at every other hole and used it as a
> plate for back riveting. The whole process worked like a champ. I
> have a very straight trailing edge.
> >
> > Mitch Lock
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: c182pilot
> > To: RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com
> > Sent: Monday, February 02, 2004 11:57 PM
> > Subject: [RV7Yahoo] Rudder Trailing Edge
> > I am danger close to riveting the skins to the skeleton. Just
a little
> > more primer, a couple of rivets on the skeleton assy and I
hope to get
> > the skins on this week.
> >
> > Regarding the trailing edge, does anyone have a method they would
> > recommend to get it straight? I'd love to hear it.
> >
> > This is a part of the emp project that I have not been looking
forward
> > to doing. I like straight, but I'm also accident prone. :o)
> >
> > Last question....the skins fit very tight on each side of the
rudder
> > horn. I feel that I need to widen the slots in the skin in
order to
> > relieve the tension a bit. The skins are really thin, and I am not
> > sure of a good method to widen the slots in this thin stuff. Any
> advice?
> >
> > Ben Shaw
> > NM
> > Van's Air Force - World Wide Wing
> > www.vansaircraft.net
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> > a.. To visit your group on the web, go to:
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/RV7and7A/
> >
> > b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > RV7and7A-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> > c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
> Service.
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> Van's Air Force - World Wide Wing
> www.vansaircraft.net
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
> a.. To visit your group on the web, go to:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/RV7and7A/
>
> b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> RV7and7A-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
Service.
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Van's Air Force - World Wide Wing
www.vansaircraft.net
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Author: "Near, William" <wnear@...> Time: Mon Feb 9, 2004 7:39 am PST Link
I used Permatex Ultra-Blue. Bought it at AutoZone. Easier to work with than Proseal. No mixing. Just squirt it in and clean up the leftover with laquer thinner. I also used it for the trailing edges of the elevators, too. I learned this trick from a friend who built a -6A. He just sold his 3 year old RV-6A for about $65,000 with a VFR panel.
-----Original Message-----
From: Mitchell Lock [mailto:CVLock@m...]
Sent: Saturday, February 07, 2004 5:29 PM
To: RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [RV7Yahoo] Rudder Trailing Edge
It's comparable in price. Maybe a bit more for the epoxy in pint cans. But, you only have to mix what you need to use. The proseal tube is totally mixed and what you don't use gets thrown away. Plus, you're gonna need the epoxy for the glass layups later on.
Mitch
----- Original Message -----
From: c182pilot
To: RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, February 06, 2004 11:58 PM
Subject: Re: [RV7Yahoo] Rudder Trailing Edge
Mitch,
Is the cost for the West Systems epoxy close to the cost of a tube of
proseal? I heard you can purchase a tube of proseal for about $14.00.
Ben
--- In RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com, "Mitchell Lock" <CVLock@m...> wrote:
> Ben,
>
> I used West Systems epoxy (just like everyone else does, or should)
with the fast hardener. Pot life is at least 30 minutes. Best I've
ever used. You can get it thru just about any aircraft supply house
or at your local boat supply store. But again, I added cotton flocked
fiber (not micro balloons) to the mix. This makes a great adhesive.
The epoxy by itself may be enough, but the fibers really make it stick.
>
> Good luck,
>
> Mitch
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: c182pilot
> To: RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Wednesday, February 04, 2004 10:00 PM
> Subject: Re: [RV7Yahoo] Rudder Trailing Edge
> Mitchell,
>
> What type of epoxy did you use? i.e. 20 minute?
>
> I am a good distance from building the fuel tanks, and I hate to
> purchase Proseal just for the AEX wedge.
>
> Ben
> --- In RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com, "Mitchell Lock" <CVLock@m...> wrote:
> > Ben,
> >
> > I've just completed riveting the trailing edge of the rudder and it
> has come out very well. What I did is this:
> >
> > Van's manual says to either proseal or epoxy the edges and wedge
> piece together before riveting. I chose to use the epoxy with cotton
> flock instead of proseal. Sets real hard, sticks real well. Enough
> said. But to keep the edges straight while curing, I used two 1/2" x
> 1/2" x 050 aluminum angle I bought at Lowe's. I used one of the
> rudder skins as a template to drill holes in the angles corresponding
> to the holes in the trailing edge. Once the rudder skins and wedge
> were assembled with the epoxy/flock applied, I clecoed the trailing
> edges together with one length of angle on each side of the trailing
> edge. I put a clecoe in each hole, alternating one side and the
> other. With the rigidity of the two angles, it kept the edge
> absolutely straight. I let it set up for a day. After removing the
> aluminum angles, I cleaned out the holes where the epoxy had leached
> into. Then I used a piece of 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" x 125" steel angle
> (someone else's idea I got off a website), drilled every other hole in
> it corresponding to the trailing edge holes, clamped it to my work
> table, clecoed the trailing edge at every other hole and used it as a
> plate for back riveting. The whole process worked like a champ. I
> have a very straight trailing edge.
> >
> > Mitch Lock
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: c182pilot
> > To: RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com
> > Sent: Monday, February 02, 2004 11:57 PM
> > Subject: [RV7Yahoo] Rudder Trailing Edge
> > I am danger close to riveting the skins to the skeleton. Just
a little
> > more primer, a couple of rivets on the skeleton assy and I
hope to get
> > the skins on this week.
> >
> > Regarding the trailing edge, does anyone have a method they would
> > recommend to get it straight? I'd love to hear it.
> >
> > This is a part of the emp project that I have not been looking
forward
> > to doing. I like straight, but I'm also accident prone. :o)
> >
> > Last question....the skins fit very tight on each side of the
rudder
> > horn. I feel that I need to widen the slots in the skin in
order to
> > relieve the tension a bit. The skins are really thin, and I am not
> > sure of a good method to widen the slots in this thin stuff. Any
> advice?
> >
> > Ben Shaw
> > NM
> > Van's Air Force - World Wide Wing
> > www.vansaircraft.net
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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> >
> > c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
> Service.
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> Van's Air Force - World Wide Wing
> www.vansaircraft.net
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Author: "c182pilot" <c182pilot@...> Time: Thu Feb 19, 2004 3:28 am PST Link
Does the Permatex Ultra Blue set up hard? How does it compare to Pro Seal?
--- In RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com, "Near, William" <wnear@d...> wrote:
> I used Permatex Ultra-Blue. Bought it at AutoZone. Easier to work
with than Proseal. No mixing. Just squirt it in and clean up the
leftover with laquer thinner. I also used it for the trailing edges of
the elevators, too. I learned this trick from a friend who built a
-6A. He just sold his 3 year old RV-6A for about $65,000 with a VFR panel.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Mitchell Lock [mailto:CVLock@m...]
> Sent: Saturday, February 07, 2004 5:29 PM
> To: RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [RV7Yahoo] Rudder Trailing Edge
> It's comparable in price. Maybe a bit more for the epoxy in pint
cans. But, you only have to mix what you need to use. The proseal
tube is totally mixed and what you don't use gets thrown away. Plus,
you're gonna need the epoxy for the glass layups later on.
>
> Mitch
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: c182pilot
> To: RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Friday, February 06, 2004 11:58 PM
> Subject: Re: [RV7Yahoo] Rudder Trailing Edge
> Mitch,
>
> Is the cost for the West Systems epoxy close to the cost of a tube of
> proseal? I heard you can purchase a tube of proseal for about $14.00.
>
> Ben
>
> --- In RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com, "Mitchell Lock" <CVLock@m...> wrote:
> > Ben,
> >
> > I used West Systems epoxy (just like everyone else does, or should)
> with the fast hardener. Pot life is at least 30 minutes. Best I've
> ever used. You can get it thru just about any aircraft supply house
> or at your local boat supply store. But again, I added cotton flocked
> fiber (not micro balloons) to the mix. This makes a great adhesive.
> The epoxy by itself may be enough, but the fibers really make it
stick.
> >
> > Good luck,
> >
> > Mitch
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: c182pilot
> > To: RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com
> > Sent: Wednesday, February 04, 2004 10:00 PM
> > Subject: Re: [RV7Yahoo] Rudder Trailing Edge
> > Mitchell,
> >
> > What type of epoxy did you use? i.e. 20 minute?
> >
> > I am a good distance from building the fuel tanks, and I hate to
> > purchase Proseal just for the AEX wedge.
> >
> > Ben
> > --- In RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com, "Mitchell Lock" <CVLock@m...>
wrote:
> > > Ben,
> > >
> > > I've just completed riveting the trailing edge of the rudder
and it
> > has come out very well. What I did is this:
> > >
> > > Van's manual says to either proseal or epoxy the edges and wedge
> > piece together before riveting. I chose to use the epoxy with
cotton
> > flock instead of proseal. Sets real hard, sticks real well.
Enough
> > said. But to keep the edges straight while curing, I used two
1/2" x
> > 1/2" x 050 aluminum angle I bought at Lowe's. I used one of the
> > rudder skins as a template to drill holes in the angles
corresponding
> > to the holes in the trailing edge. Once the rudder skins and
wedge
> > were assembled with the epoxy/flock applied, I clecoed the
trailing
> > edges together with one length of angle on each side of the
trailing
> > edge. I put a clecoe in each hole, alternating one side and the
> > other. With the rigidity of the two angles, it kept the edge
> > absolutely straight. I let it set up for a day. After
removing the
> > aluminum angles, I cleaned out the holes where the epoxy had
leached
> > into. Then I used a piece of 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" x 125" steel angle
> > (someone else's idea I got off a website), drilled every other
hole in
> > it corresponding to the trailing edge holes, clamped it to my work
> > table, clecoed the trailing edge at every other hole and used
it as a
> > plate for back riveting. The whole process worked like a
champ. I
> > have a very straight trailing edge.
> > >
> > > Mitch Lock
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: c182pilot
> > > To: RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com
> > > Sent: Monday, February 02, 2004 11:57 PM
> > > Subject: [RV7Yahoo] Rudder Trailing Edge
> > > I am danger close to riveting the skins to the skeleton. Just
> a little
> > > more primer, a couple of rivets on the skeleton assy and I
> hope to get
> > > the skins on this week.
> > >
> > > Regarding the trailing edge, does anyone have a method
they would
> > > recommend to get it straight? I'd love to hear it.
> > >
> > > This is a part of the emp project that I have not been looking
> forward
> > > to doing. I like straight, but I'm also accident prone. :o)
> > >
> > > Last question....the skins fit very tight on each side of the
> rudder
> > > horn. I feel that I need to widen the slots in the skin in
> order to
> > > relieve the tension a bit. The skins are really thin, and
I am not
> > > sure of a good method to widen the slots in this thin
stuff. Any
> > advice?
> > >
> > > Ben Shaw
> > > NM
> > > Van's Air Force - World Wide Wing
> > > www.vansaircraft.net
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> > > Yahoo! Groups Links
> > >
> > > a.. To visit your group on the web, go to:
> > > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/RV7and7A/
> > >
> > > b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > > RV7and7A-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > >
> > > c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo!
Terms of
> > Service.
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > Van's Air Force - World Wide Wing
> > www.vansaircraft.net
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> > a.. To visit your group on the web, go to:
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/RV7and7A/
> >
> > b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > RV7and7A-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> > c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
> Service.
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> Van's Air Force - World Wide Wing
> www.vansaircraft.net
> Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
> ADVERTISEMENT
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
> a.. To visit your group on the web, go to:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/RV7and7A/
>
> b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> RV7and7A-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
Service.
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> Van's Air Force - World Wide Wing
> www.vansaircraft.net
> _____
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> * To visit your group on the web, go to:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/RV7and7A/
> * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
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<mailto:RV7and7A-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com?subject=Unsubscribe
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Service <http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/> .
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Author: "Near, William" <wnear@...> Time: Thu Feb 19, 2004 6:24 am PST Link
It actually is rather flexible but I used it in the trailing edge of both elevators as well as the rudder (both new and old) and find it easy to work with. I must confess that I have never used proseal so I can't comment on it. I bought the quickbuild kit so I did't have to seal any wings.
My $.02 regarding bandsaws. I bought a Grizzly band saw which is stationary but I put it on a rolling cart to be able to move it out of the way. It is Model # G0555.
I use a blade with 12 tpi and it cuts through aluminum like butter. The more teeth per inch, the better for metal. Cutting steel would be a different story but aluminum cuts very easily.
[Near, William] -----Original Message-----
From: c182pilot [mailto:c182pilot@y...]
Sent: Wednesday, February 18, 2004 10:53 PM
To: RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [RV7Yahoo] Rudder Trailing Edge
Does the Permatex Ultra Blue set up hard? How does it compare to Pro Seal?
--- In RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com, "Near, William" <wnear@d...> wrote:
> I used Permatex Ultra-Blue. Bought it at AutoZone. Easier to work
with than Proseal. No mixing. Just squirt it in and clean up the
leftover with laquer thinner. I also used it for the trailing edges of
the elevators, too. I learned this trick from a friend who built a
-6A. He just sold his 3 year old RV-6A for about $65,000 with a VFR panel.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Mitchell Lock [mailto:CVLock@m...]
> Sent: Saturday, February 07, 2004 5:29 PM
> To: RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [RV7Yahoo] Rudder Trailing Edge
> It's comparable in price. Maybe a bit more for the epoxy in pint
cans. But, you only have to mix what you need to use. The proseal
tube is totally mixed and what you don't use gets thrown away. Plus,
you're gonna need the epoxy for the glass layups later on.
>
> Mitch
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: c182pilot
> To: RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Friday, February 06, 2004 11:58 PM
> Subject: Re: [RV7Yahoo] Rudder Trailing Edge
> Mitch,
>
> Is the cost for the West Systems epoxy close to the cost of a tube of
> proseal? I heard you can purchase a tube of proseal for about $14.00.
>
> Ben
>
> --- In RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com, "Mitchell Lock" <CVLock@m...> wrote:
> > Ben,
> >
> > I used West Systems epoxy (just like everyone else does, or should)
> with the fast hardener. Pot life is at least 30 minutes. Best I've
> ever used. You can get it thru just about any aircraft supply house
> or at your local boat supply store. But again, I added cotton flocked
> fiber (not micro balloons) to the mix. This makes a great adhesive.
> The epoxy by itself may be enough, but the fibers really make it
stick.
> >
> > Good luck,
> >
> > Mitch
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: c182pilot
> > To: RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com
> > Sent: Wednesday, February 04, 2004 10:00 PM
> > Subject: Re: [RV7Yahoo] Rudder Trailing Edge
> > Mitchell,
> >
> > What type of epoxy did you use? i.e. 20 minute?
> >
> > I am a good distance from building the fuel tanks, and I hate to
> > purchase Proseal just for the AEX wedge.
> >
> > Ben
> > --- In RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com, "Mitchell Lock" <CVLock@m...>
wrote:
> > > Ben,
> > >
> > > I've just completed riveting the trailing edge of the rudder
and it
> > has come out very well. What I did is this:
> > >
> > > Van's manual says to either proseal or epoxy the edges and wedge
> > piece together before riveting. I chose to use the epoxy with
cotton
> > flock instead of proseal. Sets real hard, sticks real well.
Enough
> > said. But to keep the edges straight while curing, I used two
1/2" x
> > 1/2" x 050 aluminum angle I bought at Lowe's. I used one of the
> > rudder skins as a template to drill holes in the angles
corresponding
> > to the holes in the trailing edge. Once the rudder skins and
wedge
> > were assembled with the epoxy/flock applied, I clecoed the
trailing
> > edges together with one length of angle on each side of the
trailing
> > edge. I put a clecoe in each hole, alternating one side and the
> > other. With the rigidity of the two angles, it kept the edge
> > absolutely straight. I let it set up for a day. After
removing the
> > aluminum angles, I cleaned out the holes where the epoxy had
leached
> > into. Then I used a piece of 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" x 125" steel angle
> > (someone else's idea I got off a website), drilled every other
hole in
> > it corresponding to the trailing edge holes, clamped it to my work
> > table, clecoed the trailing edge at every other hole and used
it as a
> > plate for back riveting. The whole process worked like a
champ. I
> > have a very straight trailing edge.
> > >
> > > Mitch Lock
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: c182pilot
> > > To: RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com
> > > Sent: Monday, February 02, 2004 11:57 PM
> > > Subject: [RV7Yahoo] Rudder Trailing Edge
> > > I am danger close to riveting the skins to the skeleton. Just
> a little
> > > more primer, a couple of rivets on the skeleton assy and I
> hope to get
> > > the skins on this week.
> > >
> > > Regarding the trailing edge, does anyone have a method
they would
> > > recommend to get it straight? I'd love to hear it.
> > >
> > > This is a part of the emp project that I have not been looking
> forward
> > > to doing. I like straight, but I'm also accident prone. :o)
> > >
> > > Last question....the skins fit very tight on each side of the
> rudder
> > > horn. I feel that I need to widen the slots in the skin in
> order to
> > > relieve the tension a bit. The skins are really thin, and
I am not
> > > sure of a good method to widen the slots in this thin
stuff. Any
> > advice?
> > >
> > > Ben Shaw
> > > NM
> > > Van's Air Force - World Wide Wing
> > > www.vansaircraft.net
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> > > Yahoo! Groups Links
> > >
> > > a.. To visit your group on the web, go to:
> > > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/RV7and7A/
> > >
> > > b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > > RV7and7A-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > >
> > > c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo!
Terms of
> > Service.
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > Van's Air Force - World Wide Wing
> > www.vansaircraft.net
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> > a.. To visit your group on the web, go to:
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/RV7and7A/
> >
> > b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > RV7and7A-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> > c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
> Service.
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> Van's Air Force - World Wide Wing
> www.vansaircraft.net
> Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
> ADVERTISEMENT
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
> a.. To visit your group on the web, go to:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/RV7and7A/
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> RV7and7A-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
Service.
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> Van's Air Force - World Wide Wing
> www.vansaircraft.net
> _____
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> * To visit your group on the web, go to:
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