Author: "Bob Collins" <bcollins@...> Time: Sun Feb 8, 2004 7:41 am PST Link
Anyone have any advice on making the scarf joint work on the wings
(this is the two-rivet-line-width area where the skins overlap?
Bob
St. Paul
Author: "vbpiper" <vbpiper@...> Time: Sun Feb 8, 2004 10:47 am PST Link
Bob,
I sanded about 4 inches back from the leading edges of the skins and,
laterally, from the beginning of the overlap to the edge. Just the
top of the underlying skin and the bottom of the top skin. I think I
started with 220 grit aluminum oxide abrasive paper
(not "sandpaper"),then 400 grit, then used a maroon Scotchbrite pad,
then cleaned and primed the area, as well as priming the top side of
the underlying skin and the underside of the top skin for the entire
length of the overlap. It was a trial and error method, but came out
well. I did find that once the skins were riveted the joint came out
a little flatter (more flush) than when just clecoed.
Hope this makes sense.
Ward
--- In RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com, "Bob Collins" <bcollins@m...> wrote:
> Anyone have any advice on making the scarf joint work on the wings
> (this is the two-rivet-line-width area where the skins overlap?
>
> Bob
> St. Paul
Author: "Mike Nellis" <mike@...> Time: Sun Feb 8, 2004 12:33 pm PST Link
A few years ago I did things a little differently and cut a small notch
so it would lay flat. Turned out great.
http://www.bmnellis.com/WingSkinning4.htm
Mike Nellis
RV-6 Fuselage N699BM
1947 Stinson 108-2 NC9666K
http://bmnellis.com <http://bmnellis.com/>
-----Original Message-----
From: vbpiper [mailto:vbpiper@c...]
Sent: Sunday, February 08, 2004 12:34 PM
To: RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [RV7Yahoo] Re: Scarf joint
Bob,
I sanded about 4 inches back from the leading edges of the skins and,
laterally, from the beginning of the overlap to the edge. Just the
top of the underlying skin and the bottom of the top skin. I think I
started with 220 grit aluminum oxide abrasive paper
(not "sandpaper"),then 400 grit, then used a maroon Scotchbrite pad,
then cleaned and primed the area, as well as priming the top side of
the underlying skin and the underside of the top skin for the entire
length of the overlap. It was a trial and error method, but came out
well. I did find that once the skins were riveted the joint came out
a little flatter (more flush) than when just clecoed.
Hope this makes sense.
Ward
--- In RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com, "Bob Collins" <bcollins@m...> wrote:
> Anyone have any advice on making the scarf joint work on the wings
> (this is the two-rivet-line-width area where the skins overlap?
>
> Bob
> St. Paul
Van's Air Force - World Wide Wing
www.vansaircraft.net
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Author: "Bruce" <wingtime@...> Time: Mon Feb 9, 2004 12:52 pm PST Link
Bob,
I used 2" scotch bright rol-loc dics in a right angel die grinder to
make the scarf joint. I started off with a maroon disc, then a
blue disc then a gray disc. To be honest, the maroon disc was a
tad coarse, but it'll work as long as your careful. I used my dial
caliper and micrometer to make sure I didn't get the skins too thin.
I think in the inboard skin I went down to .024" on the front corner
and .018" on the outboard skin. I back riveted my top skins and
they came out VERY flush and smooth. Be sure to prime really good
since the alclad is gone!
Bruce