Author: gary gagliolo <gabbiesrv7a@...> Time: Thu Feb 12, 2004 7:17 pm PST Link
Im at the point of fitting the tank skins. when i clecoed the skins to the spar and tank baffle I found a gap of about 1/64th to 1/32nd, between the tank skin and the leading edge skin, noticable. The plans say it should be a perfect fit, but if not, elongate the holes in in the baffle inboard or outboard as necessary to allow the baffle holes to align with the skin when the skin is clecoed to the spar. I dont get it. If you elongate one hole in the baffle you have to realign all of them to get the skin to match the prepunched holes. Has anyone dealt with this? Id appreciate your words of wisdom. BTW, the next page of the plans say to machine countersink the spanwise baffle holes. I could just use a confirmation on that. I guess we arent dimpling here because of the potential to warp the baffle thus preventing a good fit for sealing? thanx, gary. Keep on keeping on.
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Author: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@...> Time: Fri Feb 13, 2004 3:29 am PST Link
Jeez, this is exactly what I intended to avoid when I strayed from the
instructions in this area. Glad I did!
http://www.rvproject.com/20020605.html
The link above describes the technique I used on both of my tanks. I'm very
happy with the results, and I know lots of people who have followed suit
with similar results.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "gary gagliolo" <gabbiesrv7a@y...>
To: <rv7and7a@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 12, 2004 7:00 PM
Subject: [RV7Yahoo] assembling fuel tanks
> Im at the point of fitting the tank skins. when i clecoed the skins to
the spar and tank baffle I found a gap of about 1/64th to 1/32nd, between
the tank skin and the leading edge skin, noticable. The plans say it
should be a perfect fit, but if not, elongate the holes in in the baffle
inboard or outboard as necessary to allow the baffle holes to align with the
skin when the skin is clecoed to the spar. I dont get it. If you elongate
one hole in the baffle you have to realign all of them to get the skin to
match the prepunched holes. Has anyone dealt with this? Id appreciate your
words of wisdom. BTW, the next page of the plans say to machine countersink
the spanwise baffle holes. I could just use a confirmation on that. I
guess we arent dimpling here because of the potential to warp the baffle
thus preventing a good fit for sealing? thanx, gary. Keep on keeping on.
> ---------------------------------
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Finance: Get your refund fast by filing online
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> Van's Air Force - World Wide Wing
> www.vansaircraft.net
> Yahoo! Groups Links
Author: gary gagliolo <gabbiesrv7a@...> Time: Fri Feb 13, 2004 8:20 am PST Link
thanx dan, dont know why i didnt check your site first but............Anyway, both of my tanks were done at the same time, so Im going to refit your way and hope that the worst I have to do is "elongate" some of the bracket to spar holes so I can move the whole tank over as a unit with brackets attached, otherwise if I redrill the bracket to baffle holes I believe Im asking for sealing problems. Sound doable. Or I can send my baffles back and have Vans send me new ones. Ha Ha. Have a good one. gary
Dan Checkoway <dan@r...> wrote:Jeez, this is exactly what I intended to avoid when I strayed from the
instructions in this area. Glad I did!
http://www.rvproject.com/20020605.html
The link above describes the technique I used on both of my tanks. I'm very
happy with the results, and I know lots of people who have followed suit
with similar results.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "gary gagliolo" <gabbiesrv7a@y...>
To: <rv7and7a@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 12, 2004 7:00 PM
Subject: [RV7Yahoo] assembling fuel tanks
> Im at the point of fitting the tank skins. when i clecoed the skins to
the spar and tank baffle I found a gap of about 1/64th to 1/32nd, between
the tank skin and the leading edge skin, noticable. The plans say it
should be a perfect fit, but if not, elongate the holes in in the baffle
inboard or outboard as necessary to allow the baffle holes to align with the
skin when the skin is clecoed to the spar. I dont get it. If you elongate
one hole in the baffle you have to realign all of them to get the skin to
match the prepunched holes. Has anyone dealt with this? Id appreciate your
words of wisdom. BTW, the next page of the plans say to machine countersink
the spanwise baffle holes. I could just use a confirmation on that. I
guess we arent dimpling here because of the potential to warp the baffle
thus preventing a good fit for sealing? thanx, gary. Keep on keeping on.
> ---------------------------------
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Finance: Get your refund fast by filing online
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> Van's Air Force - World Wide Wing
> www.vansaircraft.net
> Yahoo! Groups Links
Van's Air Force - World Wide Wing
www.vansaircraft.net
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Author: "Bruce" <wingtime@...> Time: Fri Feb 13, 2004 4:15 pm PST Link
Gary,
Like Dan said, Vans method of assembling and drilling the tank Z-
brackets is terrible. If you haven't put your platnuts on the z-
brackets then just elongate the z-bracket to spar attach holes to get
your tank skin to line up.
Worst case your looking at a new set of z-brackets to get a nice
tight fit using a modified version of Dan's Method to drill them.
Bruce
Author: "lindbergs52" <lindbergs1@...> Time: Sun Feb 15, 2004 3:37 am PST Link
I used Dan C.'s method and it worked well for me. It is worth
mentioning that Dan did not emphasize the need for careful vertical
alignment of the tank on the wing spar. Unlike the leading edge
assembly the tank can move up an down against the spar about +/-
1/16th of an inch. Be sure that a line normal to the spar web and
passing through the spar web center hole also intersects the center
of the tank rib rear flange. This is accomplished by careful vertical
centering of the holes on the Z brackets. In retrospect I think that
Van's method will work, too, but it is even more dependant on very
accurate hole placement in the Z bracket. Steve Lindberg
--- In RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com, "Bruce" <wingtime@y...> wrote:
> Gary,
>
> Like Dan said, Vans method of assembling and drilling the tank Z-
> brackets is terrible. If you haven't put your platnuts on the z-
> brackets then just elongate the z-bracket to spar attach holes to
get
> your tank skin to line up.
>
> Worst case your looking at a new set of z-brackets to get a nice
> tight fit using a modified version of Dan's Method to drill them.
>
> Bruce
Author: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@...> Time: Sun Feb 15, 2004 1:17 pm PST Link
Steve,
If you follow my method, the leading edge is already clecoed on when you fit
and drill the tank. The leading edge position (which is more or less locked
in even with clecos) dictates the vertical alignment of the fuel tank, and
there's basically zero room for error as I see it.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "lindbergs52" <lindbergs1@c...>
To: <RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 14, 2004 11:15 PM
Subject: [RV7Yahoo] Re: assembling fuel tanks
> I used Dan C.'s method and it worked well for me. It is worth
> mentioning that Dan did not emphasize the need for careful vertical
> alignment of the tank on the wing spar. Unlike the leading edge
> assembly the tank can move up an down against the spar about +/-
> 1/16th of an inch. Be sure that a line normal to the spar web and
> passing through the spar web center hole also intersects the center
> of the tank rib rear flange. This is accomplished by careful vertical
> centering of the holes on the Z brackets. In retrospect I think that
> Van's method will work, too, but it is even more dependant on very
> accurate hole placement in the Z bracket. Steve Lindberg
> --- In RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com, "Bruce" <wingtime@y...> wrote:
> > Gary,
> >
> > Like Dan said, Vans method of assembling and drilling the tank Z-
> > brackets is terrible. If you haven't put your platnuts on the z-
> > brackets then just elongate the z-bracket to spar attach holes to
> get
> > your tank skin to line up.
> >
> > Worst case your looking at a new set of z-brackets to get a nice
> > tight fit using a modified version of Dan's Method to drill them.
> >
> > Bruce
> Van's Air Force - World Wide Wing
> www.vansaircraft.net
> Yahoo! Groups Links
Author: "lindbergs52" <lindbergs1@...> Time: Sun Feb 15, 2004 10:44 pm PST Link
Dan,
I found, in my case, that the tank could move up and down about
1/16th of an inch at the inboard end,even with the tank clecoed to
the spar. The outboard end of the tank was constrained by the
leading edge join strip but once the leading edge was removed to
allow access to the outboard Z bracket it, too, could move. The
movement was in the section of tank skin between the baffle and the
clecoes. I pondered this for a while and then I realized that Van's
method, which stressed the need to drill "exactly" on the vertical
center of the Z brackets, would align the center of the ribs with the
center of the main spar web. So that is what I did, My (first)
tank, left on its own, wanted to ride high due to the springyness of
its skins. Steve Lindberg
--- In RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com, "Dan Checkoway" <dan@r...> wrote:
> Steve,
>
> If you follow my method, the leading edge is already clecoed on
when you fit
> and drill the tank. The leading edge position (which is more or
less locked
> in even with clecos) dictates the vertical alignment of the fuel
tank, and
> there's basically zero room for error as I see it.
>
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "lindbergs52" <lindbergs1@c...>
> To: <RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Saturday, February 14, 2004 11:15 PM
> Subject: [RV7Yahoo] Re: assembling fuel tanks
> > I used Dan C.'s method and it worked well for me. It is worth
> > mentioning that Dan did not emphasize the need for careful
vertical
> > alignment of the tank on the wing spar. Unlike the leading edge
> > assembly the tank can move up an down against the spar about +/-
> > 1/16th of an inch. Be sure that a line normal to the spar web and
> > passing through the spar web center hole also intersects the
center
> > of the tank rib rear flange. This is accomplished by careful
vertical
> > centering of the holes on the Z brackets. In retrospect I think
that
> > Van's method will work, too, but it is even more dependant on very
> > accurate hole placement in the Z bracket. Steve Lindberg
> > --- In RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com, "Bruce" <wingtime@y...> wrote:
> > > Gary,
> > >
> > > Like Dan said, Vans method of assembling and drilling the tank
Z-
> > > brackets is terrible. If you haven't put your platnuts on the
z-
> > > brackets then just elongate the z-bracket to spar attach holes
to
> > get
> > > your tank skin to line up.
> > >
> > > Worst case your looking at a new set of z-brackets to get a nice
> > > tight fit using a modified version of Dan's Method to drill
them.
> > >
> > > Bruce
> > Van's Air Force - World Wide Wing
> > www.vansaircraft.net
> > Yahoo! Groups Links