Author: "Brian Meyette" <brianpublic@...> Time: Tue Jan 4, 2005 8:44 am PST Link
Many thanks all who responded to this question. I followed your
advice, and it worked just fine. Regarding Dan's comment about the
thread locking compound vs the plexiglas, I wrote Loctite Corp's
technical support group and asked them what they recommend for use
around plexiglas. I thought I'd enclose their reply, so all can
benefit from it:
"Thank you for your inquiry. Our standard threadlockers would not be
appropriate for use on or around plexiglass. A safer type of product
would be a cyanoacrylate-based threadlocker such as our 425. This
adhesive will provide a removable lock, and since it will surface
cure, any squeeze-out will dry on the plexiglass, therefore
minimizing the possibility of stress cracking."
This Loctite 425 can be found on MSC page 2583, part number 90028408.
I also plan to get a 0.1060" reamer from MSC, so the pilot hole for
the tapping is just a bit on the small side, so the screws will be
more snug.
brian
http://brian76.mystarband.net/RV-7Ahome.htm
--- In RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com, "Dan Checkoway" <dan@r...> wrote:
>
> Brian,
>
> FWIW, I used a Unibit to enlarge the holes to 5/32" and it worked
out fine.
> The unibit seems about as good as anything for plexi since
it "shaves"
> rather than gouges, and it even tends to debur the hole a bit if
the next
> step contacts the plexi. My advice is to follow the instructions,
using a
> plexi bit for match drilling, and then switch to the unibit on the
plexi.
> The holes in the frame & roll bar can theoretically be enlarged
> independently.
>
> My advice on the holes in the roll bar is to undersize them
slightly, and
> tap 'em only partially. It will help retain the screws naturally
without
> any threadlock (which is dangerous for plexi!). If you run the tap
all the
> way through those holes the screws will almost definitely be loose
without
> something like Vibra-Tite (an acrylic-safe brush on nylok).
>
> Another piece of advice is to countersink the plexi while the hole
is still
> just 1/8" or #30 -- that way you can use a countersink cutter with
a #30
> pilot. Not sure if you'll find that convenient or not, but I did.
>
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Brian Meyette" <brianpublic@s...>
> To: "RV7and7A@yahoogroups. com" <RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com>;
> <BostonRVBuilders@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, December 28, 2004 5:56 PM
> Subject: [RV7Yahoo] canopy plexi mount holes
> > I have my tipup canopy pretty well fitted by now, and I am about
ready to
> > drill the screw holes in the canopy bubble and canopy frame. But
I am a
> bit
> > confused about what size holes to drill for this. The manual
says to use
> > #40 in the metal, to locate the holes, then #30 plexi bit through
the
> plexi
> > and metal. It also says the hardware will be #6 screws. But #6
screws
> will
> > not fit through a #30 hole - they need #28. I have a #30 plexi
bit and a
> > 5/32", but nothing in between. I know the surest way to crack
the plexi
> is
> > to use a regular bit to enlarge a hole, so I can't drill to #30
with the
> > plexi bit and then enlarge to #28. Should I drill the plexi to
5/32" and
> > the metal to #28? Should I drill the plexi with the #30, then
use the
> 5/32"
> > plexi bit to enlarge it, or just do it with the 5/32 from the
start? The
> > problem with the latter method is that the 5/32 is bigger than
the #28
> holes
> > in the metal, so I won't be able to match drill the holes.
> > Thanks,
> > brian
> >
> > --
> > No virus found in this outgoing message.
> > Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
> > Version: 7.0.296 / Virus Database: 265.6.5 - Release Date:
12/26/2004
> > Van's Air Force - World Wide Wing
> > www.vansaircraft.net
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
Van's Air Force - World Wide Wing
www.vansaircraft.net
Yahoo! Groups Links
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Author: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@...> Time: Tue Jan 4, 2005 8:50 am PST Link
Brian,
I would still be very careful using any glue type stuff. From what I've
heard, it's not the glue, but rather the vapors that they give off as they
cure, which cause the most damage. You might want to ask around, i.e. on
vansairforce or rv-list, before making the final decision.
It would really suck if a year down the line you notice crazing around every
screw hole.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Meyette" <brianpublic@starband.net>
To: <RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 04, 2005 8:32 AM
Subject: [RV7Yahoo] was: canopy plexi mount holes - now LOCTITE
> Many thanks all who responded to this question. I followed your
> advice, and it worked just fine. Regarding Dan's comment about the
> thread locking compound vs the plexiglas, I wrote Loctite Corp's
> technical support group and asked them what they recommend for use
> around plexiglas. I thought I'd enclose their reply, so all can
> benefit from it:
>
> "Thank you for your inquiry. Our standard threadlockers would not be
> appropriate for use on or around plexiglass. A safer type of product
> would be a cyanoacrylate-based threadlocker such as our 425. This
> adhesive will provide a removable lock, and since it will surface
> cure, any squeeze-out will dry on the plexiglass, therefore
> minimizing the possibility of stress cracking."
>
> This Loctite 425 can be found on MSC page 2583, part number 90028408.
>
> I also plan to get a 0.1060" reamer from MSC, so the pilot hole for
> the tapping is just a bit on the small side, so the screws will be
> more snug.
>
> brian
> http://brian76.mystarband.net/RV-7Ahome.htm
> --- In RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com, "Dan Checkoway" <dan@r...> wrote:
> >
> > Brian,
> >
> > FWIW, I used a Unibit to enlarge the holes to 5/32" and it worked
> out fine.
> > The unibit seems about as good as anything for plexi since
> it "shaves"
> > rather than gouges, and it even tends to debur the hole a bit if
> the next
> > step contacts the plexi. My advice is to follow the instructions,
> using a
> > plexi bit for match drilling, and then switch to the unibit on the
> plexi.
> > The holes in the frame & roll bar can theoretically be enlarged
> > independently.
> >
> > My advice on the holes in the roll bar is to undersize them
> slightly, and
> > tap 'em only partially. It will help retain the screws naturally
> without
> > any threadlock (which is dangerous for plexi!). If you run the tap
> all the
> > way through those holes the screws will almost definitely be loose
> without
> > something like Vibra-Tite (an acrylic-safe brush on nylok).
> >
> > Another piece of advice is to countersink the plexi while the hole
> is still
> > just 1/8" or #30 -- that way you can use a countersink cutter with
> a #30
> > pilot. Not sure if you'll find that convenient or not, but I did.
> >
> > )_( Dan
> > RV-7 N714D
> > http://www.rvproject.com
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Brian Meyette" <brianpublic@s...>
> > To: "RV7and7A@yahoogroups. com" <RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com>;
> > <BostonRVBuilders@yahoogroups.com>
> > Sent: Tuesday, December 28, 2004 5:56 PM
> > Subject: [RV7Yahoo] canopy plexi mount holes
> > > I have my tipup canopy pretty well fitted by now, and I am about
> ready to
> > > drill the screw holes in the canopy bubble and canopy frame. But
> I am a
> > bit
> > > confused about what size holes to drill for this. The manual
> says to use
> > > #40 in the metal, to locate the holes, then #30 plexi bit through
> the
> > plexi
> > > and metal. It also says the hardware will be #6 screws. But #6
> screws
> > will
> > > not fit through a #30 hole - they need #28. I have a #30 plexi
> bit and a
> > > 5/32", but nothing in between. I know the surest way to crack
> the plexi
> > is
> > > to use a regular bit to enlarge a hole, so I can't drill to #30
> with the
> > > plexi bit and then enlarge to #28. Should I drill the plexi to
> 5/32" and
> > > the metal to #28? Should I drill the plexi with the #30, then
> use the
> > 5/32"
> > > plexi bit to enlarge it, or just do it with the 5/32 from the
> start? The
> > > problem with the latter method is that the 5/32 is bigger than
> the #28
> > holes
> > > in the metal, so I won't be able to match drill the holes.
> > > Thanks,
> > > brian
> > >
> > > --
> > > No virus found in this outgoing message.
> > > Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
> > > Version: 7.0.296 / Virus Database: 265.6.5 - Release Date:
> 12/26/2004
> > > Van's Air Force - World Wide Wing
> > > www.vansaircraft.net
> > > Yahoo! Groups Links
> Van's Air Force - World Wide Wing
> www.vansaircraft.net
> Yahoo! Groups Links
Van's Air Force - World Wide Wing
www.vansaircraft.net
Yahoo! Groups Links
<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/RV7and7A/
<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
RV7and7A-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
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