Author: "Andy Bell" <bellwa99@...> Time: Mon Jul 25, 2005 9:07 pm PDT Link
Man I am struggling with this rudder. The HS and VS didn't seem this
difficult. While riveting the skins to the counterbalance skin my
flush set slipped and I put a serious ding in the skin. I don't think
it will cause problems but it looks like hell. Any ideas how to cover
up something like that? Bondo? I'll be estatic when I finish this
rudder and can start fresh on the elevators.
Van's Air Force - World Wide Wing
www.vansaircraft.net
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Author: "Steve Moore" <alpinelakespilot2000@...> Time: Mon Jul 25, 2005 11:59 pm PDT Link
I suspect everyone has one of those somewhere, Andy. Don't worry about
it too much. I got a very clean rudder (the 9's is the same), but one
of my elevators has a ding at exactly that same place (where the
counterbalance and main skins meet). In my case though, somehow I
dinged it "out," so I have a little bubble there that I'll have to find
some way to smash down a little. Bondo is generally not recommended
b/c it cracks over time, but a filler with the micro balloons will
supposedly do the trick. Worry about it when you do all the fiberglass
work at the end. Elevators are probably more challenging than the
rudder, but by the time you finish the empennage, you've done some of
the most difficult tasks, at least through the wing stage. Hang in
there.
Steve
--- In RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com, "Andy Bell" <bellwa99@y...> wrote:
> Man I am struggling with this rudder. The HS and VS didn't seem this
> difficult. While riveting the skins to the counterbalance skin my
> flush set slipped and I put a serious ding in the skin. I don't think
> it will cause problems but it looks like hell. Any ideas how to cover
> up something like that? Bondo? I'll be estatic when I finish this
> rudder and can start fresh on the elevators.
Van's Air Force - World Wide Wing
www.vansaircraft.net
Yahoo! Groups Links
<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
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Author: Frank Stringham <fstringham7a@...> Time: Tue Jul 26, 2005 7:04 am PDT Link
Andy
I have a serious ding in my right wing aft outboard edge. A good neighbor of mine was doing the shooting while I bucked the rivets. He did wonderful on the left wing but had a shoulder operation before doing the right wing. His strenght and coordination were thus effected. If I was going with the retro metal look I would be seriously upset....but plan on painting so will probably use some type of body filler to correct........move on IT WON"T BE YOUR LAST DING.........sorry about the emphasis but ,,,,,,,I a wait my next little minor flaw with dread.....
Frank @ sgu and slc fuselage
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Author: Dave Nellis <truflite@...> Time: Tue Jul 26, 2005 2:31 pm PDT Link
Andy,
I had a similar problem that I thought would cost me a
new rudder skin. While back riveting the stiffeners,
I went one rivet too far and bucked a rivet that was
not on the back plate. The gun slipped and caught the
edge of the back plate. It put a crease in the skin
about 1/2 inch across. An A&P looked at it and told
me to put that area on a back plate and place a piece
of steel over the crease. It should be 2x 2 minimum.
Then hit it with the rivet gun to flatten the area
out. Don't use the rivet set itself, too much force
in one area. It will damage the metal more. The
crease was so bad that when flattened out, the metal
broke. Back to the A&P. He marked a spot where he
said to add a rivet near the break and then I stop
drilled the break. Looks rough (compared to the rest
of the rudder), but he said he would sign off on a
repair like that.
--- Andy Bell <bellwa99@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Man I am struggling with this rudder. The HS and VS
> didn't seem this
> difficult. While riveting the skins to the
> counterbalance skin my
> flush set slipped and I put a serious ding in the
> skin. I don't think
> it will cause problems but it looks like hell. Any
> ideas how to cover
> up something like that? Bondo? I'll be estatic when
> I finish this
> rudder and can start fresh on the elevators.
__________________________________________________
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Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
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Author: Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003@...> Time: Tue Jul 26, 2005 7:21 pm PDT Link
Fire the A&P!! Bad news if you have a post completion tear and an A&P will "sign it off"... There has been enough problems on many RV's with stress cracks in the rudder with no previous damage. Get the new parts...
Dave Nellis <truflite@yahoo.com> wrote:Andy,
I had a similar problem that I thought would cost me a
new rudder skin. While back riveting the stiffeners,
I went one rivet too far and bucked a rivet that was
not on the back plate. The gun slipped and caught the
edge of the back plate. It put a crease in the skin
about 1/2 inch across. An A&P looked at it and told
me to put that area on a back plate and place a piece
of steel over the crease. It should be 2x 2 minimum.
Then hit it with the rivet gun to flatten the area
out. Don't use the rivet set itself, too much force
in one area. It will damage the metal more. The
crease was so bad that when flattened out, the metal
broke. Back to the A&P. He marked a spot where he
said to add a rivet near the break and then I stop
drilled the break. Looks rough (compared to the rest
of the rudder), but he said he would sign off on a
repair like that.
--- Andy Bell <bellwa99@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Man I am struggling with this rudder. The HS and VS
> didn't seem this
> difficult. While riveting the skins to the
> counterbalance skin my
> flush set slipped and I put a serious ding in the
> skin. I don't think
> it will cause problems but it looks like hell. Any
> ideas how to cover
> up something like that? Bondo? I'll be estatic when
> I finish this
> rudder and can start fresh on the elevators.
__________________________________________________
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---------------------------------
Darrell Reiley
Round Rock, Texas
RV 7A "Reiley Rocket"
N622DR (reserved)
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Author: "Paul" <greif8@...> Time: Tue Jul 26, 2005 11:36 pm PDT Link
Some one please tell me if I'm mistaken. Didnt all the RV's with stress
cracks have the old style rudder and thinner rudder skins?
TIA
Paul
----- Original Message -----
From: "Darrell Reiley" <lifeofreiley2003@yahoo.com>
To: <RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, July 26, 2005 8:24 PM
Subject: Re: [RV7Yahoo] More Rudder
> Fire the A&P!! Bad news if you have a post completion tear and an A&P will
> "sign it off"... There has been enough problems on many RV's with stress
> cracks in the rudder with no previous damage. Get the new parts...
>
> Dave Nellis <truflite@yahoo.com> wrote:Andy,
>
> I had a similar problem that I thought would cost me a
> new rudder skin. While back riveting the stiffeners,
> I went one rivet too far and bucked a rivet that was
> not on the back plate. The gun slipped and caught the
> edge of the back plate. It put a crease in the skin
> about 1/2 inch across. An A&P looked at it and told
> me to put that area on a back plate and place a piece
> of steel over the crease. It should be 2x 2 minimum.
> Then hit it with the rivet gun to flatten the area
> out. Don't use the rivet set itself, too much force
> in one area. It will damage the metal more. The
> crease was so bad that when flattened out, the metal
> broke. Back to the A&P. He marked a spot where he
> said to add a rivet near the break and then I stop
> drilled the break. Looks rough (compared to the rest
> of the rudder), but he said he would sign off on a
> repair like that.
>
> --- Andy Bell <bellwa99@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>> Man I am struggling with this rudder. The HS and VS
>> didn't seem this
>> difficult. While riveting the skins to the
>> counterbalance skin my
>> flush set slipped and I put a serious ding in the
>> skin. I don't think
>> it will cause problems but it looks like hell. Any
>> ideas how to cover
>> up something like that? Bondo? I'll be estatic when
>> I finish this
>> rudder and can start fresh on the elevators.
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
> Van's Air Force - World Wide Wing
> www.vansaircraft.net
> SPONSORED LINKS
> Aviation school Charter plane Plane tickets Aviation headset
>
> ---------------------------------
> YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS
> Visit your group "RV7and7A" on the web.
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> RV7and7A-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
> ---------------------------------
> Darrell Reiley
> Round Rock, Texas
>
> RV 7A "Reiley Rocket"
> N622DR (reserved)
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Van's Air Force - World Wide Wing
www.vansaircraft.net
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Author: Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003@...> Time: Wed Jul 27, 2005 9:40 am PDT Link
Paul, I believe you are probably correct about being the old style but I can't vouch for if they were "all"old style rudders. The point here is if the thin skin had a problem with stress cracking, why would you want to start off with a little thicker skinned rudder with cracks already in it?
Darrell
Paul <greif8@mindspring.com> wrote:
Some one please tell me if I'm mistaken. Didnt all the RV's with stress
cracks have the old style rudder and thinner rudder skins?
TIA
Paul
----- Original Message -----
From: "Darrell Reiley" <lifeofreiley2003@yahoo.com>
To: <RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, July 26, 2005 8:24 PM
Subject: Re: [RV7Yahoo] More Rudder
> Fire the A&P!! Bad news if you have a post completion tear and an A&P will
> "sign it off"... There has been enough problems on many RV's with stress
> cracks in the rudder with no previous damage. Get the new parts...
>
> Dave Nellis <truflite@yahoo.com> wrote:Andy,
>
> I had a similar problem that I thought would cost me a
> new rudder skin. While back riveting the stiffeners,
> I went one rivet too far and bucked a rivet that was
> not on the back plate. The gun slipped and caught the
> edge of the back plate. It put a crease in the skin
> about 1/2 inch across. An A&P looked at it and told
> me to put that area on a back plate and place a piece
> of steel over the crease. It should be 2x 2 minimum.
> Then hit it with the rivet gun to flatten the area
> out. Don't use the rivet set itself, too much force
> in one area. It will damage the metal more. The
> crease was so bad that when flattened out, the metal
> broke. Back to the A&P. He marked a spot where he
> said to add a rivet near the break and then I stop
> drilled the break. Looks rough (compared to the rest
> of the rudder), but he said he would sign off on a
> repair like that.
>
> --- Andy Bell <bellwa99@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>> Man I am struggling with this rudder. The HS and VS
>> didn't seem this
>> difficult. While riveting the skins to the
>> counterbalance skin my
>> flush set slipped and I put a serious ding in the
>> skin. I don't think
>> it will cause problems but it looks like hell. Any
>> ideas how to cover
>> up something like that? Bondo? I'll be estatic when
>> I finish this
>> rudder and can start fresh on the elevators.
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
> Van's Air Force - World Wide Wing
> www.vansaircraft.net
> SPONSORED LINKS
> Aviation school Charter plane Plane tickets Aviation headset
>
> ---------------------------------
> YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS
> Visit your group "RV7and7A" on the web.
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> RV7and7A-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
> ---------------------------------
> Darrell Reiley
> Round Rock, Texas
>
> RV 7A "Reiley Rocket"
> N622DR (reserved)
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> Van's Air Force - World Wide Wing
> www.vansaircraft.net
> Yahoo! Groups Links
Van's Air Force - World Wide Wing
www.vansaircraft.net
---------------------------------
YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS
Visit your group "RV7and7A" on the web.
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
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---------------------------------
__________________________________________________
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Author: Dave Nellis <truflite@...> Time: Wed Jul 27, 2005 3:18 pm PDT Link
My dilemna, which I thought was workable, seems to
have opened a can of worms. I have seen many aircraft
with cracks in the skin that have been stop drilled.
In fact, I trained in a Cherokee 140 that had two such
cracks stopdrilled. Therefore, when my A&P friend
said it should be okay, I did not think much of it.
Yes, I was concerned that the repair might not be
acceptable. No, I am not an idiot. Hence, all my
inquiring to the A&P. I plan now to go to my DAR and
show him, in person, the rudder repair. What he will
say will be law.
Dave
--- Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Paul, I believe you are probably correct about being
> the old style but I can't vouch for if they were
> "all"old style rudders. The point here is if the
> thin skin had a problem with stress cracking, why
> would you want to start off with a little thicker
> skinned rudder with cracks already in it?
>
> Darrell
>
> Paul <greif8@mindspring.com> wrote:
> Some one please tell me if I'm mistaken. Didnt all
> the RV's with stress
> cracks have the old style rudder and thinner rudder
> skins?
>
> TIA
>
> Paul
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Darrell Reiley" <lifeofreiley2003@yahoo.com>
> To: <RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, July 26, 2005 8:24 PM
> Subject: Re: [RV7Yahoo] More Rudder
> > Fire the A&P!! Bad news if you have a post
> completion tear and an A&P will
> > "sign it off"... There has been enough problems on
> many RV's with stress
> > cracks in the rudder with no previous damage. Get
> the new parts...
> >
> > Dave Nellis <truflite@yahoo.com> wrote:Andy,
> >
> > I had a similar problem that I thought would cost
> me a
> > new rudder skin. While back riveting the
> stiffeners,
> > I went one rivet too far and bucked a rivet that
> was
> > not on the back plate. The gun slipped and caught
> the
> > edge of the back plate. It put a crease in the
> skin
> > about 1/2 inch across. An A&P looked at it and
> told
> > me to put that area on a back plate and place a
> piece
> > of steel over the crease. It should be 2x 2
> minimum.
> > Then hit it with the rivet gun to flatten the area
> > out. Don't use the rivet set itself, too much
> force
> > in one area. It will damage the metal more. The
> > crease was so bad that when flattened out, the
> metal
> > broke. Back to the A&P. He marked a spot where
> he
> > said to add a rivet near the break and then I stop
> > drilled the break. Looks rough (compared to the
> rest
> > of the rudder), but he said he would sign off on a
> > repair like that.
> >
> > --- Andy Bell <bellwa99@yahoo.com> wrote:
> >
> >> Man I am struggling with this rudder. The HS and
> VS
> >> didn't seem this
> >> difficult. While riveting the skins to the
> >> counterbalance skin my
> >> flush set slipped and I put a serious ding in the
> >> skin. I don't think
> >> it will cause problems but it looks like hell.
> Any
> >> ideas how to cover
> >> up something like that? Bondo? I'll be estatic
> when
> >> I finish this
> >> rudder and can start fresh on the elevators.
> > __________________________________________________
> > Do You Yahoo!?
> > Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam
> protection around
> > http://mail.yahoo.com
> > Van's Air Force - World Wide Wing
> > www.vansaircraft.net
> > SPONSORED LINKS
> > Aviation school Charter plane Plane tickets
> Aviation headset
> >
> > ---------------------------------
> > YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS
> > Visit your group "RV7and7A" on the web.
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email
> to:
> > RV7and7A-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the
> Yahoo! Terms of Service.
> > ---------------------------------
> > Darrell Reiley
> > Round Rock, Texas
> >
> > RV 7A "Reiley Rocket"
> > N622DR (reserved)
> > __________________________________________________
> > Do You Yahoo!?
> > Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam
> protection around
> > http://mail.yahoo.com
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
> > Van's Air Force - World Wide Wing
> > www.vansaircraft.net
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> Van's Air Force - World Wide Wing
> www.vansaircraft.net
> ---------------------------------
> YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS
> Visit your group "RV7and7A" on the web.
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email
> to:
> RV7and7A-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the
> Yahoo! Terms of Service.
> ---------------------------------
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam
> protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
=== message truncated ===
__________________________________________________
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Author: Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003@...> Time: Wed Jul 27, 2005 6:24 pm PDT Link
Dave,
In no way would anyone here call you an idiot! We are not talking about Cherokee 140 speeds and or loads here. DAR or not, it's in your best interest to replace the part. What's your life worth? IMHO I would fix the problem. Sorry if it was taken in a different context...
Darrell
Dave Nellis <truflite@yahoo.com> wrote:
My dilemna, which I thought was workable, seems to
have opened a can of worms. I have seen many aircraft
with cracks in the skin that have been stop drilled.
In fact, I trained in a Cherokee 140 that had two such
cracks stopdrilled. Therefore, when my A&P friend
said it should be okay, I did not think much of it.
Yes, I was concerned that the repair might not be
acceptable. No, I am not an idiot. Hence, all my
inquiring to the A&P. I plan now to go to my DAR and
show him, in person, the rudder repair. What he will
say will be law.
Dave
--- Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Paul, I believe you are probably correct about being
> the old style but I can't vouch for if they were
> "all"old style rudders. The point here is if the
> thin skin had a problem with stress cracking, why
> would you want to start off with a little thicker
> skinned rudder with cracks already in it?
>
> Darrell
>
> Paul <greif8@mindspring.com> wrote:
> Some one please tell me if I'm mistaken. Didnt all
> the RV's with stress
> cracks have the old style rudder and thinner rudder
> skins?
>
> TIA
>
> Paul
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Darrell Reiley" <lifeofreiley2003@yahoo.com>
> To: <RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, July 26, 2005 8:24 PM
> Subject: Re: [RV7Yahoo] More Rudder
> > Fire the A&P!! Bad news if you have a post
> completion tear and an A&P will
> > "sign it off"... There has been enough problems on
> many RV's with stress
> > cracks in the rudder with no previous damage. Get
> the new parts...
> >
> > Dave Nellis <truflite@yahoo.com> wrote:Andy,
> >
> > I had a similar problem that I thought would cost
> me a
> > new rudder skin. While back riveting the
> stiffeners,
> > I went one rivet too far and bucked a rivet that
> was
> > not on the back plate. The gun slipped and caught
> the
> > edge of the back plate. It put a crease in the
> skin
> > about 1/2 inch across. An A&P looked at it and
> told
> > me to put that area on a back plate and place a
> piece
> > of steel over the crease. It should be 2x 2
> minimum.
> > Then hit it with the rivet gun to flatten the area
> > out. Don't use the rivet set itself, too much
> force
> > in one area. It will damage the metal more. The
> > crease was so bad that when flattened out, the
> metal
> > broke. Back to the A&P. He marked a spot where
> he
> > said to add a rivet near the break and then I stop
> > drilled the break. Looks rough (compared to the
> rest
> > of the rudder), but he said he would sign off on a
> > repair like that.
> >
> > --- Andy Bell <bellwa99@yahoo.com> wrote:
> >
> >> Man I am struggling with this rudder. The HS and
> VS
> >> didn't seem this
> >> difficult. While riveting the skins to the
> >> counterbalance skin my
> >> flush set slipped and I put a serious ding in the
> >> skin. I don't think
> >> it will cause problems but it looks like hell.
> Any
> >> ideas how to cover
> >> up something like that? Bondo? I'll be estatic
> when
> >> I finish this
> >> rudder and can start fresh on the elevators.
> > __________________________________________________
> > Do You Yahoo!?
> > Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam
> protection around
> > http://mail.yahoo.com
> > Van's Air Force - World Wide Wing
> > www.vansaircraft.net
> > SPONSORED LINKS
> > Aviation school Charter plane Plane tickets
> Aviation headset
> >
> > ---------------------------------
> > YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS
> > Visit your group "RV7and7A" on the web.
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email
> to:
> > RV7and7A-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the
> Yahoo! Terms of Service.
> > ---------------------------------
> > Darrell Reiley
> > Round Rock, Texas
> >
> > RV 7A "Reiley Rocket"
> > N622DR (reserved)
> > __________________________________________________
> > Do You Yahoo!?
> > Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam
> protection around
> > http://mail.yahoo.com
> >
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Author: "pepeborja925mb" <pepeborja925mb@...> Time: Wed Jul 27, 2005 8:26 pm PDT Link
<SNIP>My dilemna, which I thought was workable, seems to have opened
a can of worms.<SNIP>
I'll say a little here. I am not an A&P but do sleep at a Holiday
Inn. Skin repairs are very common in aviation. Most of the ones I
have seen (and done) involve stoping the crack from moving and
installing a doubler plate in the inside, if possible, or the
outside.
A properly repaired skin with a doubler is as strong as the original
one. I'd recommend anyone to get the FAA A&P books and see the
variety of reparis that can be done to skins and structural
members. I would not get a new skin as drilling out the existing
rivets may do more damage. I would not rely on a DAR's word, but
would ask an A&P or two with GA experience to check the repair
itself to ensure their opinion.
Just rememeber this..... plenty of flying surfaces in very fast
airplanes (faster than the fastest RV could ever dream of flying)
have fabric flying surfaces. So don't sweat a skin repair too
much. The rudder in my airplane and the stabilator in my airplane
are made with fabric. VNE is 150MPH, and that's because of the
cantilevered wing spar, not the tail surfaces.
Jose Borja
Elk Mound WI
RV7 possibly sold, but who knows this day and age.
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Author: Roger Fuller <fullerra@...> Time: Thu Jul 28, 2005 10:13 am PDT Link
Pepe,
Good to see you're still out there watching our 6's (and 6A's, 7's and 7A's
as well!). Chime in whenever you have comments. We first time builders
appreciate all the help we can get.
Two questions. What's you're 150 Vne aircraft? And, 2, never did see what
kit car you're building? Just curious, as I've considered a Cobra kit a time
or two.
Roger Fuller
Coalinga, CA
RV-7 Wings.
_____
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Author: "pepeborja925mb" <pepeborja925mb@...> Time: Thu Jul 28, 2005 8:43 pm PDT Link
<SNIP> Good to see you're still out there watching our 6's (and 6A's,
7's and 7A's as well!).Two questions. What's you're 150 Vne
aircraft? And, 2, never did see what kit car you're building?<SNIP>
Roger,
Thank you for the kind words. My current aircraft is a Titan Tornado
II with a Rotax 912S engine. In so far as what I consider important
in a sport airplane, my Tornado outdoes the RV7 I am building with
the exception of cruise speed (an ROC in the case of the devils with
180HO and C/S props). The RV is IMHO strictly a cross-country
machine and I don't do much of that but twice a year, when I go to
the factory fly-in and venture either west or south. Those trips are
between 1500 and 2000 miles round trip. I cruise at 100Knts with
5GPH, so that's plenty good for those two trips.
STOL wise, my airstrip (WI05) is 1000 feet long and the RV would be a
disaster waiting to happen in my place with my ham-fisted piloting
skills. I figured then that I would have to hanger away (at $150/mo)
and fly it little as I would not be too happy to drive to the airport
to fly when today my plane is in my backyard. It is for that reason
that I decided to sell the RV and build a second kit car made by
either Factory Five Racing or a new entrant into the ring named
Hurricane Sports. There is a person coming to see the kit this
Sunday, we will see if a kit car is in my future, otherwise I will
convert my 1993 4 cyl mustang convertible into a V8, 302 supercharged
sleeper.
If the kit does not sell I will continue to build it to the next
stage where it will be ready for engine selection, instruments, and
paint. By then I figure there would be more interests than just tire
kicking. That means I would continue to lurk around here and learn
about building the fuselage
Van's Air Force - World Wide Wing
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Author: "dhweber1" <dhweber1@...> Time: Sat Jul 30, 2005 5:43 pm PDT Link
Dave,
Common sense is allowed to prevail here. I assume that this crack
is visible without too much eye strain. I further assume that your
stop drill holes are at each ends of the crack. If there was a lot
of stress on the rudder skin it would be much thicker than it is.
My suggestion is to fly your airplane and remember to check the
crack occasionally, if you can stand the negative cosmetic appeal.
If the crack starts to propogate past the stop drill hole an
additional repair will be required. I doubt if this will be the
case however. Your A&P friend gave you good advice.
Enjoy yourself during the build process, it is half the fun. This is
not the last mistake you will make. Just wait until you slip during
the dimple process at some point and put a nice new dimpled hole
1/4" from the hole you were trying to dimple.
Always remember that they put that little red eraser at the end of
pencils because people make mistakes. Recognizing and admitting
mistakes is the hardest part of this or any other project. In that
respect it sounds like you are doing quite well.
D. Weber Sr.
In RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com, Dave Nellis <truflite@y...> wrote:
> My dilemna, which I thought was workable, seems to
> have opened a can of worms. I have seen many aircraft
> with cracks in the skin that have been stop drilled.
> In fact, I trained in a Cherokee 140 that had two such
> cracks stopdrilled. Therefore, when my A&P friend
> said it should be okay, I did not think much of it.
> Yes, I was concerned that the repair might not be
> acceptable. No, I am not an idiot. Hence, all my
> inquiring to the A&P. I plan now to go to my DAR and
> show him, in person, the rudder repair. What he will
> say will be law.
>
> Dave
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