Author: "sam_mourning" <sam.mourning@...> Time: Wed Oct 16, 2002 5:23 pm PDT Link
Quick question for those who've done their tanks.
What are you doing with the end plate and the sender plate? Are you
pro-sealing these with the gasket, without the gasket or not using
proseal at all and just using the gasket alone?
Thanks in advance.
Sam Mourning.
Author: "Dave Nicholson" <dnick2@...> Time: Wed Oct 16, 2002 5:28 pm PDT Link
I pro-sealed the end plates, gaskets, and screw heads as well as all the tank fittings (Supply, Vent, Level Sender).
Dave
90347
Finishing Kit
----- Original Message -----
From: sam_mourning
To: RV-9A@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, October 16, 2002 7:23 PM
Subject: [RV-9A] Tank Question
Quick question for those who've done their tanks.
What are you doing with the end plate and the sender plate? Are you
pro-sealing these with the gasket, without the gasket or not using
proseal at all and just using the gasket alone?
Thanks in advance.
Sam Mourning.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Author: "Votuc.com" <guy@...> Time: Wed Oct 16, 2002 5:52 pm PDT Link
Sam,
I just used the gasket dry on both pieces. I countersunk the end plate screws and used Bakerseal on the threads..No
Leaks............
Guy
----- Original Message -----
From: "sam_mourning" <sam.mourning@d...>
To: <RV-9A@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 16, 2002 8:23 PM
Subject: [RV-9A] Tank Question
> Quick question for those who've done their tanks.
>
> What are you doing with the end plate and the sender plate? Are you
> pro-sealing these with the gasket, without the gasket or not using
> proseal at all and just using the gasket alone?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Sam Mourning.
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> RV-9A-unsubscribe@egroups.com
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Author: "Greg Tanner" <gtanner@...> Time: Wed Oct 16, 2002 6:01 pm PDT Link
I prosealed EVERYTHING
AHHHH--Proseal---gimme some more!!!
Greg
-----Original Message-----
From: sam_mourning [mailto:sam.mourning@d...]
Sent: Wednesday, October 16, 2002 5:23 PM
To: RV-9A@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [RV-9A] Tank Question
Quick question for those who've done their tanks.
What are you doing with the end plate and the sender plate? Are you
pro-sealing these with the gasket, without the gasket or not using
proseal at all and just using the gasket alone?
Thanks in advance.
Sam Mourning.
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
RV-9A-unsubscribe@egroups.com
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Author: "brywd" <brywd@...> Time: Wed Oct 16, 2002 7:41 pm PDT Link
Hi Sam,
Before I got to the tanks somebody gave me a ride in their RV-6 which
smelled strongly of fuel. It turns out that the cork gaskets had
shrunk and he developed a slight leak, not enough to stain but enough
to make the airplane smell terrible. Fixing the problem meant pulling
the wings to get the tanks off and he was truly dreading the job.
Armed with this I called the factory when I built mine because this is
an ongoing debate between builders. The guy at the factory stated
that he threw away the gaskets and prosealed the plates and screws on
with his tanks. Anyway, I did the same and have experienced no leaks
as of yet. However, they have not been filled with fuel yet either.
Regards,
Bryan Wood
--- In RV-9A@y..., "sam_mourning" <sam.mourning@d...> wrote:
> Quick question for those who've done their tanks.
>
> What are you doing with the end plate and the sender plate? Are you
> pro-sealing these with the gasket, without the gasket or not using
> proseal at all and just using the gasket alone?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Sam Mourning.
Author: "Gene" <gene@...> Time: Wed Oct 16, 2002 8:08 pm PDT Link
Since the cork gasket may have a tendency to shrink why not go to your local auto parts store and get some suitble gasket material. I prosealed the gasket to the tank and then used non hardening permatex on the cover and the screws.
Speaking of pro-seal Vans now stocks the stuff in a tube it is Chemseal B-1/2 which according to Tom Green means a half hour pot life. I was still useing it at about three hours and ran out of things to stick together. I had previously bought the stuff from Aircraft Spruce for about three bucks more the Vans' sell it for. I use an air powered dispenser made by Semco that I got of of E-bay for $ 50.00. I would think you could modify an ordinary caulking gun plunger and use it for a dispenser.
Gene N557RV (res.) jury duty for two weeks
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Author: "Dave Nicholson" <dnick2@...> Time: Wed Oct 16, 2002 8:26 pm PDT Link
It is possible to pull the wing tanks without pulling the wings.
A pneumatic ratchet wrench and an electric screwdriver makes it not too bad.
Matt Burch did that with his 9a not too long ago.
Dave
90347
----- Original Message -----
From: brywd
To: RV-9A@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, October 16, 2002 9:41 PM
Subject: [RV-9A] Re: Tank Question
Hi Sam,
Before I got to the tanks somebody gave me a ride in their RV-6 which
smelled strongly of fuel. It turns out that the cork gaskets had
shrunk and he developed a slight leak, not enough to stain but enough
to make the airplane smell terrible. Fixing the problem meant pulling
the wings to get the tanks off and he was truly dreading the job.
Armed with this I called the factory when I built mine because this is
an ongoing debate between builders. The guy at the factory stated
that he threw away the gaskets and prosealed the plates and screws on
with his tanks. Anyway, I did the same and have experienced no leaks
as of yet. However, they have not been filled with fuel yet either.
Regards,
Bryan Wood
--- In RV-9A@y..., "sam_mourning" <sam.mourning@d...> wrote:
> Quick question for those who've done their tanks.
>
> What are you doing with the end plate and the sender plate? Are you
> pro-sealing these with the gasket, without the gasket or not using
> proseal at all and just using the gasket alone?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Sam Mourning.
Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
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To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Author: "rv9builder" <mschrimmer@...> Time: Wed Oct 16, 2002 9:18 pm PDT Link
Are you pro-sealing these with the gasket, without the gasket or
not using proseal at all and just using the gasket alone?
>
Sam,
On the advice of several local builders, I tossed the gaskets and
just used Proseal.
Mark Schrimmer
Author: "Larry Perryman" <larry-perryman@...> Time: Thu Oct 17, 2002 6:48 am PDT Link
Well I guess I am the expert on pulling tanks since I have had mine
off the plane three times now to fix leaks. Check with your local
auto parts store for a 1/4 inch drive air rachet. I saw one at
O'Reileys Auto Parts for about $35.00 the other day. A 3/8 inch air
rachet will work but is a bit big.
For those stil working with air tools, take a look at Cleveland's
lite weight air hose kit. It is great. I especially like the small
air couplings. They remove a bunch of weight that you have to carry
around. They will sell the kit in any length hose you want. Just be
sure to order enough of the male fittings to equip all your air
tools.
Another good point is that it will keep folks from borrowing your
tools since they don't have the connector to hook it up.
I used a regulator and fixed it up to go at the end of my regular air
hose and then take off with the lite weight hose. You can adjust the
air preessure near where you are working and saves a few steps.
Regards
Larry Perryman
Author: "Votuc.com" <guy@...> Time: Thu Oct 17, 2002 7:12 am PDT Link
Larry,
You may have told us in the past and I just missed it.. but.......can you tell us what type of leaks showed up and why do you
think they passed during initial pressure test. Do you remember how much pressure you used ? Was it all gasket area related or
rivets too ?
Thanks !
Guy
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Perryman" <larry-perryman@t...>
To: <RV-9A@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, October 17, 2002 9:48 AM
Subject: [RV-9A] Re: Tank Question
> Well I guess I am the expert on pulling tanks since I have had mine
> off the plane three times now to fix leaks. Check with your local
> auto parts store for a 1/4 inch drive air rachet. I saw one at
> O'Reileys Auto Parts for about $35.00 the other day. A 3/8 inch air
> rachet will work but is a bit big.
>
> For those stil working with air tools, take a look at Cleveland's
> lite weight air hose kit. It is great. I especially like the small
> air couplings. They remove a bunch of weight that you have to carry
> around. They will sell the kit in any length hose you want. Just be
> sure to order enough of the male fittings to equip all your air
> tools.
>
> Another good point is that it will keep folks from borrowing your
> tools since they don't have the connector to hook it up.
>
> I used a regulator and fixed it up to go at the end of my regular air
> hose and then take off with the lite weight hose. You can adjust the
> air preessure near where you are working and saves a few steps.
>
> Regards
> Larry Perryman
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> RV-9A-unsubscribe@egroups.com
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Author: "Curt Hoffman" <choffman9@...> Time: Thu Oct 17, 2002 2:41 pm PDT Link
I pro-sealed everything including both sides of the cork gasket, the screw
threads, etc. No leaks. I figured with the capacitive fuel gage system there
wasn't much reason to get in there anyway so seal that baby up.
Curt Hoffman
RV-9A wings
1968 Mustang 302 convertible
Piper Cherokee N5320W
----- Original Message -----
From: "sam_mourning" <sam.mourning@d...>
To: <RV-9A@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 16, 2002 7:23 PM
Subject: [RV-9A] Tank Question
> Quick question for those who've done their tanks.
>
> What are you doing with the end plate and the sender plate? Are you
> pro-sealing these with the gasket, without the gasket or not using
> proseal at all and just using the gasket alone?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Sam Mourning.
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> RV-9A-unsubscribe@egroups.com
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Author: "Larry Perryman" <larry-perryman@...> Time: Thu Oct 17, 2002 8:09 pm PDT Link
Guy,
When I put in my return line for the tank, I put the jam nut on the
inside. When I tightened the line to the fitting, the fitting turned
and the jam nut came loose inside the tank. LEAK 1
Pulled tank and put fitting back in with jam nut on outside of tank.
Cross threaded the nut the next time on and had to pull and replace
the fitting. LEAK 2
I originally installed the Vision Micro capacitance sender in my
tanks. After I found out that it would cost me about $700 to get the
fuel gage to light up, I decided to go with Vans float gages.
Removing the tubes and installing a plug in the threaded adaptor
broke something loose in the wield in the very cornor of the tank.
Had to go back in and fill the corner behind the adaptor with proseal
to get it to stop leaking. LEAK 3
The remainder of the tank is holding fine.
NOthing major just a bit of fun getting al the fittings sealed.
Regards
Larry
Author: "Newsted, Gary" <Gary.Newsted@...> Time: Fri Oct 18, 2002 5:50 am PDT Link
You should ProSeal around ALL of your tank fittings, electrical too. It'sbest to have the nuts on the outside, but even on the inside, ProSeal should have done the trick. A lot of guys have had leads through the center pin of their BNC connectors because they didn't ProSeal the insides around the wire. These tanks are one place where I think Van should invest further energy. Not all ancient technology is good technology.
Author: "sam_mourning" <sam.mourning@...> Time: Fri Oct 18, 2002 7:42 am PDT Link
Just wanted to thank everybody for the responses to the
proseal/endplates question. Looks like I'll be going the
"Blazing Saddles" route ("we don't need no steeenking gaskets")
Thanks again.
Sam
Author: "rvbuilder2002" <smcdaniels@...> Time: Tue Oct 22, 2002 9:04 pm PDT Link
--- In RV-9A@y..., "Larry Perryman" <larry-perryman@t...> wrote:
> Guy,
>
> When I put in my return line for the tank, I put the jam nut on the
> inside. When I tightened the line to the fitting, the fitting
turned
> and the jam nut came loose inside the tank. LEAK 1
>
> Pulled tank and put fitting back in with jam nut on outside of tank.
>
> Cross threaded the nut the next time on and had to pull and replace
> the fitting. LEAK 2
>
> I originally installed the Vision Micro capacitance sender in my
> tanks. After I found out that it would cost me about $700 to get
the
> fuel gage to light up, I decided to go with Vans float gages.
>
> Removing the tubes and installing a plug in the threaded adaptor
> broke something loose in the wield in the very cornor of the tank.
> Had to go back in and fill the corner behind the adaptor with
proseal
> to get it to stop leaking. LEAK 3
>
> The remainder of the tank is holding fine.
>
> NOthing major just a bit of fun getting al the fittings sealed.
>
> Regards
> Larry
Larry, You had it right the first time... the jamb nut should be on
the inside. That is so that the nut that is integral to the fitting
is on the out side of the tank. The reason that this is important is
that as a standard practice on aircraft, you "always" use two
wrenches when tightening or loosening a hose or line fitting. One
wrench on the fitting to prevent it from accidently being rotated (in
this case breaking the seal on the fuel tank) and the other wrench to
tighten or loosen the hose or line nut.
As for the tank leak problem...
A leak test that finds no leaks with the cork gasket after final
assembly means nothing. It happens over time as the cork and/or
rubber sender gaskets get old.
>From experience I can assure you that if you use the supplied cork
and rubber gaskets you will get leaks. Maybe in 6 months or it may
even take a couple of years, but it will eventually leak.
If you use only tank sealant with no gaskets it will give you a
permanent leak proof seal but you CAN still remove the parts if you
ever need to. Also you do not need to remove the tank from the wing
to remove the sender or the cover plate. It is a little bit tight
but I have done it 3 times my self. Use a 90 deg ratchet
screwdriver, or better (faster) yet, as another poster mentioned, a
90 deg air ratchet.
Scott McDaniels
Author: Jerry Vanatta <jnv@...> Time: Wed Oct 23, 2002 6:57 am PDT Link
I am ready to test my 9A tanks and cant find the post as how to do it. Can
you tell me where to find the information about the test method?
Regards,
Jerry
-----Original Message-----
From: rvbuilder2002 [mailto:smcdaniels@j...]
Sent: Tuesday, October 22, 2002 11:05 PM
To: RV-9A@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [RV-9A] Re: Tank Question
--- In RV-9A@y..., "Larry Perryman" <larry-perryman@t...> wrote:
> Guy,
>
> When I put in my return line for the tank, I put the jam nut on the
> inside. When I tightened the line to the fitting, the fitting
turned
> and the jam nut came loose inside the tank. LEAK 1
>
> Pulled tank and put fitting back in with jam nut on outside of tank.
>
> Cross threaded the nut the next time on and had to pull and replace
> the fitting. LEAK 2
>
> I originally installed the Vision Micro capacitance sender in my
> tanks. After I found out that it would cost me about $700 to get
the
> fuel gage to light up, I decided to go with Vans float gages.
>
> Removing the tubes and installing a plug in the threaded adaptor
> broke something loose in the wield in the very cornor of the tank.
> Had to go back in and fill the corner behind the adaptor with
proseal
> to get it to stop leaking. LEAK 3
>
> The remainder of the tank is holding fine.
>
> NOthing major just a bit of fun getting al the fittings sealed.
>
> Regards
> Larry
Larry, You had it right the first time... the jamb nut should be on
the inside. That is so that the nut that is integral to the fitting
is on the out side of the tank. The reason that this is important is
that as a standard practice on aircraft, you "always" use two
wrenches when tightening or loosening a hose or line fitting. One
wrench on the fitting to prevent it from accidently being rotated (in
this case breaking the seal on the fuel tank) and the other wrench to
tighten or loosen the hose or line nut.
As for the tank leak problem...
A leak test that finds no leaks with the cork gasket after final
assembly means nothing. It happens over time as the cork and/or
rubber sender gaskets get old.
>From experience I can assure you that if you use the supplied cork
and rubber gaskets you will get leaks. Maybe in 6 months or it may
even take a couple of years, but it will eventually leak.
If you use only tank sealant with no gaskets it will give you a
permanent leak proof seal but you CAN still remove the parts if you
ever need to. Also you do not need to remove the tank from the wing
to remove the sender or the cover plate. It is a little bit tight
but I have done it 3 times my self. Use a 90 deg ratchet
screwdriver, or better (faster) yet, as another poster mentioned, a
90 deg air ratchet.
Scott McDaniels
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]