Author: "Brian" <bsowell@...> Time: Tue Oct 22, 2002 12:36 pm PDT Link
I've been looking for a safe but effective corrosion resistance for
my 9a project. I don't want lung cancer, as this might tend to
impede my flying time. I've decided to go with the Safegard CC 6100
product line. I post this info here 1) to let others know if they're
interested, and 2) to ask if anyone sees a glaring hole in my
decision. Please comment.
[HTML]http://www.sanchem.com/safegard_cc_types.html[/HTML]
These products are supposedly a safe and effective alternative to
alodine.
Some additional info:
1) These products are catalyst activated. Most of the Safegard CC
products on this page require special equipment, but the 6100 and
7000 lines are 'cold applied' so they are brushed on. (The difference
between 6100 and 7000 is the stregths of the product, so that the
6100 acts faster.)
2) They are supposed to be very safe. Disposal is done by pouring
some peroxide into the container and then just pouring it out
anywhere.
3) They have a 5 year shelf life.
4) They are colored, so that if you see a gold/brown color, you know
it was done properly.
5) This protection alone is (according to their technical group)
enough for 2024 and 6061 alloys. Being alclad is a bonus. In
addition, they also have a sealer (called Sealer #2) that gives
maximum protection. It is brushed or sprayed on and heated with a
heat gun to cure. I am also using this, but will probably only use
it on non-alclad parts, and perhaps on the rivited joints..we'll
see. I won't use the sealer where I use primer, but I don't intend
to use zinc chromate a lot on the interior.
6) It comes with it's own cleaner.
7) The price of the products I ordered are:
6100 Part A - $30 gallon
6100 Part B - $30 gallon
6100 Part C (cleaner) - $35 gallon
Sealer #2 - $40 gallon
It also comes in pints, and, I believe, quarts.
I would love to know what you think.
Author: "Newsted, Gary" <Gary.Newsted@...> Time: Tue Oct 22, 2002 12:50 pm PDT Link
I have no experience with the particular products you mention, but the multi-part mixture sounds overly complex for the task at hand. You tend to spray lots of small batches of parts, so you typically only need to mix up a few ounces at a time. Using a heat gun and peroxide hardly sounds safe to me. And dumping it anywhere!!!
Brush or roller paints tend to go on heavy, so use this method sparingly. You might also want to consider a spray-on primer if it's going to be undera finish paint job.
I personally use Dupont VariPrime. This is available in normal zinc-chromate, or you can get a low-VOC, non-chromate, variant that complies with California EPA regulations. Proper protection will keep those lungs happy, andshould be used no matter how safe the manufacturer claims it to be.
Gary N.
Author: "Brian" <bsowell@...> Time: Wed Oct 23, 2002 6:11 am PDT Link
Thanks for the feedback. I debated over this choice a long time and
came to the conclusion to use the safest effective products I could
find. And then as soon as I sent this post, it hit me that there is
a primer alternaive that is relatively safe...AFS's waterbased
primers. So I've changed my approach, although I'll still use the
alodine alternative SafeGuard CC 6100.
For alclad parts - I'll just use the SafeGard CC 6100 alodine
alternative conversion coating.
For non-alclad parts and rivet joints - I'll use the above and add a
top coat of AFS's one part sealing primer. This will eliminate my
using the Seal #2 (and heat gun) in my original post. It is designed
for internal, non-top coated parts because it has a sealing agent in
the primer.
My process will then be simplified.
A) Clean with Safegard CC 6100 part C cleaner
B) Mix and brush on Safegard CC 6100 parts A and B, let react, and
rinse with water.
C) Spray the 1 part AFS sealer primer on non-alclad parts and on
rivet joints.
Not overly complex. No etch step, as the Safegard CC promotes paint
adhesion on its own (the Safegard cleaner my etch as well...I am
unsure). This should be a light, safe, and effective treatment.
Of course this all will be tested on scrap before I do anything to
the plane. I'll report back here as soon as I have done some testing.
Also, the good folks at AFS is looking into the compatibility of
their primers with the Safegard CC. There shouldn't be an issue
here, but that is certainly a nice thing for them to offer to do.
--- In RV-9A@y..., "Newsted, Gary" <Gary.Newsted@h...> wrote:
>
> I have no experience with the particular products you mention, but
the multi-part mixture sounds overly complex for the task at hand.
You tend to spray lots of small batches of parts, so you typically
only need to mix up a few ounces at a time. Using a heat gun and
peroxide hardly sounds safe to me. And dumping it anywhere!!!
>
> Brush or roller paints tend to go on heavy, so use this method
sparingly. You might also want to consider a spray-on primer if it's
going to be under a finish paint job.
>
> I personally use Dupont VariPrime. This is available in normal
zinc-chromate, or you can get a low-VOC, non-chromate, variant that
complies with California EPA regulations. Proper protection will
keep those lungs happy, and should be used no matter how safe the
manufacturer claims it to be.
>
> Gary N.
Author: "Brian" <bsowell@...> Time: Wed Oct 23, 2002 5:51 pm PDT Link
Received confirmation today from Aircraft Finishing Systems that the
alodine alternative I will be using is compatible with their primer,
and that I do not need an etch step because the alodine alternative
promotes paint adhesion. Thanks AFS!
--- In RV-9A@y..., "Brian" <bsowell@d...> wrote:
> Thanks for the feedback. I debated over this choice a long time
and
> came to the conclusion to use the safest effective products I could
> find. And then as soon as I sent this post, it hit me that there
is
> a primer alternaive that is relatively safe...AFS's waterbased
> primers. So I've changed my approach, although I'll still use the
> alodine alternative SafeGuard CC 6100.
>
> For alclad parts - I'll just use the SafeGard CC 6100 alodine
> alternative conversion coating.
>
> For non-alclad parts and rivet joints - I'll use the above and add
a
> top coat of AFS's one part sealing primer. This will eliminate my
> using the Seal #2 (and heat gun) in my original post. It is
designed
> for internal, non-top coated parts because it has a sealing agent
in
> the primer.
>
> My process will then be simplified.
>
> A) Clean with Safegard CC 6100 part C cleaner
> B) Mix and brush on Safegard CC 6100 parts A and B, let react, and
> rinse with water.
> C) Spray the 1 part AFS sealer primer on non-alclad parts and on
> rivet joints.
>
> Not overly complex. No etch step, as the Safegard CC promotes
paint
> adhesion on its own (the Safegard cleaner my etch as well...I am
> unsure). This should be a light, safe, and effective treatment.
>
> Of course this all will be tested on scrap before I do anything to
> the plane. I'll report back here as soon as I have done some
testing.
>
> Also, the good folks at AFS is looking into the compatibility of
> their primers with the Safegard CC. There shouldn't be an issue
> here, but that is certainly a nice thing for them to offer to do.
>
> --- In RV-9A@y..., "Newsted, Gary" <Gary.Newsted@h...> wrote:
> >
> > I have no experience with the particular products you mention,
but
> the multi-part mixture sounds overly complex for the task at hand.
> You tend to spray lots of small batches of parts, so you typically
> only need to mix up a few ounces at a time. Using a heat gun and
> peroxide hardly sounds safe to me. And dumping it anywhere!!!
> >
> > Brush or roller paints tend to go on heavy, so use this method
> sparingly. You might also want to consider a spray-on primer if
it's
> going to be under a finish paint job.
> >
> > I personally use Dupont VariPrime. This is available in normal
> zinc-chromate, or you can get a low-VOC, non-chromate, variant that
> complies with California EPA regulations. Proper protection will
> keep those lungs happy, and should be used no matter how safe the
> manufacturer claims it to be.
> >
> > Gary N.