Author: "Phil Perry" <philstar@...> Time: Thu Aug 7, 2003 8:10 am PDT Link
Gary,
A friend of mine has started an anodizing business. In exchange for
electronic service he needs, he has offered to anodized all of my wing ribs,
(I am ready to shoot the Dupont self etching on and finish the wings). His
normal fee would be several hundred dollars. Would this be better than
priming? What is your (or anyone who is an expert in anodizing) opinion.
Phil
----- Original Message -----
From: "Newsted, Gary" <Gary.Newsted@h...>
To: <RV-9A@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, August 07, 2003 8:28 AM
Subject: RE: [RV-9A] Gary's Rudder Trailing Edge
> Making it a tad thicker is exactly what I had in mind.
> It is a 0.015" aluminum c-channel strip riveted over the entire
> trailing edge seam. As you saw, it made for a nice clean and
> straight edge, much stronger than the original. I have not
> noticed any adverse effects on the flight characteristics, but
> then I never flew it without this mod, so I've got nothing to
> compare it with. I would/did not do this on any other edges,
> just the rudder because of the thin metal it used. The vast
> majority of time, you fly these planes without touching the
> rudder pedals at all. I have never noticed any flutter, even
> at 180mph, so my conclusion is that it was a worthy mod.
>
> Gary
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> RV-9A-unsubscribe@egroups.com
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Author: "Newsted, Gary" <Gary.Newsted@...> Time: Thu Aug 7, 2003 8:47 am PDT Link
Well anodizing is certainly lighter and probably as effective of a
corrosion protection, so if you've got a good deal going, go for it!
Keep in mind that most of the parts made from sheet aluminum are
already ALCLAD, which is a very good protection to begin with. Adding
further protection to these parts is really to protect the
various tooling holes, rivet holes, seams, scratches, etc. So anything
you can do to protect the places where moisture and corrosion can creep
in is a good thing. Keeping the weight down is likewise a good thing.
I would be sure to have him anodize the parts which are NOT ALCLAD, such
as some of the angle pieces, flap hinges, etc.
Keep in mind too that self-etching primer serves a dual-purpose for
surfaces which are to be painted. You need this primer to adhere to
the metal so that your final primer/topcoat have a good grip. I would
not suggest trying to shoot topcoat or topcoat primer directly over
anodized metals without first scuffing and etch-priming them.
Author: Bob Kelly <mmpi@...> Time: Thu Aug 7, 2003 9:32 am PDT Link
Phil,
I have an airframe that is almost twenty years old and completely anodized!
My old Phantom u/l shows just how good anodizing stands up; it is still in
great shape. I do a little anodizing from time to time and like the
process and result. Just make sure you have everything done (deburring,
dimpling, etc) first as anodizing has a VERY hard surface that is hard on
tools. Also, I don't know how you would paint over it as I have never
tried. I do know that you can't really scuff the surface as it is too
hard. If you plan on topcoating, I would do some experiments first. The
easy way is to use a colored dye if you don't like the natural aluminum
look. Black looks great!
Bob Kelly
> Gary,
> A friend of mine has started an anodizing business. In exchange for
> electronic service he needs, he has offered to anodized all of my wing
> ribs, (I am ready to shoot the Dupont self etching on and finish the
> wings). His normal fee would be several hundred dollars. Would this be
> better than priming? What is your (or anyone who is an expert in
> anodizing) opinion.
Author: "Robert Scott" <rscott@...> Time: Thu Aug 7, 2003 11:09 am PDT Link
We manufacture parts for Boeing 717 and C17. Every aluminum part we make for them gets Anodized, FR primed ( 2 part epoxy primer green in color) and if it's outside the aircraft such as the flap areas, wheel wells and etc., they get a 2 part epoxy topcoat usually gray in color.
Robert Scott
----- Original Message -----
From: Bob Kelly
To: RV-9A@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, August 07, 2003 9:32 AM
Subject: [RV-9A] Re: Anodizing ribs
Phil,
I have an airframe that is almost twenty years old and completely anodized!
My old Phantom u/l shows just how good anodizing stands up; it is still in
great shape. I do a little anodizing from time to time and like the
process and result. Just make sure you have everything done (deburring,
dimpling, etc) first as anodizing has a VERY hard surface that is hard on
tools. Also, I don't know how you would paint over it as I have never
tried. I do know that you can't really scuff the surface as it is too
hard. If you plan on topcoating, I would do some experiments first. The
easy way is to use a colored dye if you don't like the natural aluminum
look. Black looks great!
Bob Kelly
> Gary,
> A friend of mine has started an anodizing business. In exchange for
> electronic service he needs, he has offered to anodized all of my wing
> ribs, (I am ready to shoot the Dupont self etching on and finish the
> wings). His normal fee would be several hundred dollars. Would this be
> better than priming? What is your (or anyone who is an expert in
> anodizing) opinion.
Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
ADVERTISEMENT
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
RV-9A-unsubscribe@egroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Author: "Phil Perry" <philstar@...> Time: Thu Aug 7, 2003 8:22 pm PDT Link
Gary,
I had planned to anodize all brackets and related, (possibly a different
color) the only internal wing part he can't do is the rear spar. Another big
plus is not having to mess with mixing primer and all that jazz.
The price is definitely right. I figured since the main spar comes anodized,
it would be alright. It will also make a neat and different nearly assembled
wing to show at a future EAA chapter meeting. I have several colors to
choose from.
Thanks, I always appreciate your input
Phil
----- Original Message -----
From: "Newsted, Gary" <Gary.Newsted@h...>
To: <RV-9A@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, August 07, 2003 10:47 AM
Subject: RE: [RV-9A] Anodizing ribs
> Well anodizing is certainly lighter and probably as effective of a
> corrosion protection, so if you've got a good deal going, go for it!
> Keep in mind that most of the parts made from sheet aluminum are
> already ALCLAD, which is a very good protection to begin with. Adding
> further protection to these parts is really to protect the
> various tooling holes, rivet holes, seams, scratches, etc. So anything
> you can do to protect the places where moisture and corrosion can creep
> in is a good thing. Keeping the weight down is likewise a good thing.
> I would be sure to have him anodize the parts which are NOT ALCLAD, such
> as some of the angle pieces, flap hinges, etc.
>
> Keep in mind too that self-etching primer serves a dual-purpose for
> surfaces which are to be painted. You need this primer to adhere to
> the metal so that your final primer/topcoat have a good grip. I would
> not suggest trying to shoot topcoat or topcoat primer directly over
> anodized metals without first scuffing and etch-priming them.
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> RV-9A-unsubscribe@egroups.com
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Author: "Phil Perry" <philstar@...> Time: Thu Aug 7, 2003 8:39 pm PDT Link
Robert,
What do you do after anodizing to prep for priming? And do you have to prime
soon after anodizing? And finally, will the Dupont 2 part self etching
primer I used on the emp work?
Thanks a bunch Robert
Phil
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert Scott" <rscott@j...>
To: <RV-9A@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, August 07, 2003 1:07 PM
Subject: Re: [RV-9A] Re: Anodizing ribs
> We manufacture parts for Boeing 717 and C17. Every aluminum part we make
for them gets Anodized, FR primed ( 2 part epoxy primer green in color) and
if it's outside the aircraft such as the flap areas, wheel wells and etc.,
they get a 2 part epoxy topcoat usually gray in color.
>
> Robert Scott
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Bob Kelly
> To: RV-9A@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Thursday, August 07, 2003 9:32 AM
> Subject: [RV-9A] Re: Anodizing ribs
> Phil,
>
> I have an airframe that is almost twenty years old and completely
anodized!
> My old Phantom u/l shows just how good anodizing stands up; it is still
in
> great shape. I do a little anodizing from time to time and like the
> process and result. Just make sure you have everything done (deburring,
> dimpling, etc) first as anodizing has a VERY hard surface that is hard
on
> tools. Also, I don't know how you would paint over it as I have never
> tried. I do know that you can't really scuff the surface as it is too
> hard. If you plan on topcoating, I would do some experiments first.
The
> easy way is to use a colored dye if you don't like the natural aluminum
> look. Black looks great!
>
> Bob Kelly
> > Gary,
> > A friend of mine has started an anodizing business. In exchange for
> > electronic service he needs, he has offered to anodized all of my wing
> > ribs, (I am ready to shoot the Dupont self etching on and finish the
> > wings). His normal fee would be several hundred dollars. Would this be
> > better than priming? What is your (or anyone who is an expert in
> > anodizing) opinion.
> Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
> ADVERTISEMENT
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> RV-9A-unsubscribe@egroups.com
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> RV-9A-unsubscribe@egroups.com
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Author: "Phil Perry" <philstar@...> Time: Thu Aug 7, 2003 9:11 pm PDT Link
Bob,
The only parts being anodized that I need to paint will be the hinge
brackets and stuff that will be visible. I knew someone in our group
mentioned working for Boeing once, and hoped he would see my request.
Indeed, Robert Scott saw and is steering me into the right direction.
By the way Bob, did you get a chance to copy that neat clamp making tool?
This thing is amazing, I think their web site is www.clampit.com I have made
up some air tool hoses and it really makes a slick clean clamp using common
aircraft safety wire.
See Ya
Phil
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Kelly" <mmpi@m...>
To: <RV-9A@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, August 07, 2003 11:32 AM
Subject: [RV-9A] Re: Anodizing ribs
> Phil,
>
> I have an airframe that is almost twenty years old and completely
anodized!
> My old Phantom u/l shows just how good anodizing stands up; it is still in
> great shape. I do a little anodizing from time to time and like the
> process and result. Just make sure you have everything done (deburring,
> dimpling, etc) first as anodizing has a VERY hard surface that is hard on
> tools. Also, I don't know how you would paint over it as I have never
> tried. I do know that you can't really scuff the surface as it is too
> hard. If you plan on topcoating, I would do some experiments first. The
> easy way is to use a colored dye if you don't like the natural aluminum
> look. Black looks great!
>
> Bob Kelly
> > Gary,
> > A friend of mine has started an anodizing business. In exchange for
> > electronic service he needs, he has offered to anodized all of my wing
> > ribs, (I am ready to shoot the Dupont self etching on and finish the
> > wings). His normal fee would be several hundred dollars. Would this be
> > better than priming? What is your (or anyone who is an expert in
> > anodizing) opinion.
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> RV-9A-unsubscribe@egroups.com
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Author: "Newsted, Gary" <Gary.Newsted@...> Time: Fri Aug 8, 2003 7:51 am PDT Link
You don't need to prime anything which is annodized.
My comment about primer was that you don't want to
anodize parts which will be topcoated with your finish
paint (i.e. the outer skins). If some of your brackets
such as the RV-9 flap hinge brackets, are anodized and
you do want to paint them, you will need to scuff them
the best you can, and then primer them so the paint will
adhere.
Author: "Robert Scott" <rscott@...> Time: Fri Aug 8, 2003 9:56 am PDT Link
Hey Phil,
I pulled this right from Boeings DPS 4.50-36 Epoxy Coating system:
DPS 4.50-36
Rev. "AN"
Page 6 of 22
4. REQUIREMENTS
4.1 Surface Preparation - Chemical surface treatment or plating, when specified,
shall have been accomplished per the requirements of the applicable Finish
Specification or Engineering drawing. ( Such as Anodize or alodine )
4.1.1 Anodized parts have a maximum time limit of 48 hours to be primed providing
parts are clean, dry, and free of any contamination. If the 48 hour limit is exceeded,
parts shall be stripped and reprocessed.
5.4.2 Detail Parts
5.4.2.1 Parts are not to be exposed outside of the building during the surface
treatment or plating process unless parts are kept dry, clean, and free of contamination
by wrapping with Kraft paper or equivalent.
5.4.2.2 Anodized parts have a maximum time limit of 48 hours to be primed
providing parts are clean, dry, and free of any contamination. If the 48 hour limit is
exceeded, parts are to be stripped and reprocessed. See paragraph 4.1.1.
5.4.2.3 Any surface treated or plated parts must be solvent cleaned per paragraph
5.4.1 if any of the following conditions apply before the application of the primer:
5.4.2.3.1 Parts remain unprimed for more than 24 hours.
5.4.2.3.2 Parts are visibly contaminated with light soiling, fingerprints, etc. For
contamination of greater severity, refer to paragraph 5.4.2.4.
NOTE: Solvent cleaning is not required prior to priming if parts are kept
clean, dry and free of contamination by wrapping with Kraft paper or
equivalent within 24 hours after surface treatment.
5.4.2.4 Strip and reprocess any surface treatment prior to priming if parts are
corroded or obviously contaminated (e.g. Skydrol, oil, grease, anodize powder or foreign material).
Hope this sheds some light on the subject.
Robert Scott
Wings......
----- Original Message -----
From: Phil Perry
To: RV-9A@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, August 07, 2003 8:38 PM
Subject: Re: [RV-9A] Re: Anodizing ribs
Robert,
What do you do after anodizing to prep for priming? And do you have to prime
soon after anodizing? And finally, will the Dupont 2 part self etching
primer I used on the emp work?
Thanks a bunch Robert
Phil
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert Scott" <rscott@j...>
To: <RV-9A@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, August 07, 2003 1:07 PM
Subject: Re: [RV-9A] Re: Anodizing ribs
> We manufacture parts for Boeing 717 and C17. Every aluminum part we make
for them gets Anodized, FR primed ( 2 part epoxy primer green in color) and
if it's outside the aircraft such as the flap areas, wheel wells and etc.,
they get a 2 part epoxy topcoat usually gray in color.
>
> Robert Scott
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Bob Kelly
> To: RV-9A@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Thursday, August 07, 2003 9:32 AM
> Subject: [RV-9A] Re: Anodizing ribs
> Phil,
>
> I have an airframe that is almost twenty years old and completely
anodized!
> My old Phantom u/l shows just how good anodizing stands up; it is still
in
> great shape. I do a little anodizing from time to time and like the
> process and result. Just make sure you have everything done (deburring,
> dimpling, etc) first as anodizing has a VERY hard surface that is hard
on
> tools. Also, I don't know how you would paint over it as I have never
> tried. I do know that you can't really scuff the surface as it is too
> hard. If you plan on topcoating, I would do some experiments first.
The
> easy way is to use a colored dye if you don't like the natural aluminum
> look. Black looks great!
>
> Bob Kelly
> > Gary,
> > A friend of mine has started an anodizing business. In exchange for
> > electronic service he needs, he has offered to anodized all of my wing
> > ribs, (I am ready to shoot the Dupont self etching on and finish the
> > wings). His normal fee would be several hundred dollars. Would this be
> > better than priming? What is your (or anyone who is an expert in
> > anodizing) opinion.
> Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
> ADVERTISEMENT
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> RV-9A-unsubscribe@egroups.com
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> RV-9A-unsubscribe@egroups.com
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
ADVERTISEMENT
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
RV-9A-unsubscribe@egroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Author: "Jim Pack" <jpack@...> Time: Fri Aug 8, 2003 10:50 am PDT Link
That being the case, is there any value in anodizing a part you will scuff,
prime and then paint? Will the scuffing eliminate the benefit of anodizing?
- Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Newsted, Gary" <Gary.Newsted@h...>
To: <RV-9A@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, August 08, 2003 8:51 AM
Subject: RE: [RV-9A] Re: Anodizing ribs
> You don't need to prime anything which is annodized.
> My comment about primer was that you don't want to
> anodize parts which will be topcoated with your finish
> paint (i.e. the outer skins). If some of your brackets
> such as the RV-9 flap hinge brackets, are anodized and
> you do want to paint them, you will need to scuff them
> the best you can, and then primer them so the paint will
> adhere.
Author: "Newsted, Gary" <Gary.Newsted@...> Time: Fri Aug 8, 2003 11:09 am PDT Link
No really, unless you are just interested in protecting the back and edgesof the part while intending to paint the top of it. The info from Boeing says you can prime over anodizing within 48 hours. That's news to me. I thought anodizing was hard as soon as it was done. Etching primer will stick to just about anything if you can scuff it up good. Anodizing is hard toscuff, but it can be done. Alodine is similar in that you still want to scuff before priming over it, but it is not hard at all.
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Pack [mailto:jpack@i...]
Sent: Friday, August 08, 2003 11:03 AM
To: RV-9A@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [RV-9A] Re: Anodizing ribs
That being the case, is there any value in anodizing a part you will scuff,
prime and then paint? Will the scuffing eliminate the benefit of anodizing?
- Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Newsted, Gary" <Gary.Newsted@h...>
To: <RV-9A@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, August 08, 2003 8:51 AM
Subject: RE: [RV-9A] Re: Anodizing ribs
> You don't need to prime anything which is annodized.
> My comment about primer was that you don't want to
> anodize parts which will be topcoated with your finish
> paint (i.e. the outer skins). If some of your brackets
> such as the RV-9 flap hinge brackets, are anodized and
> you do want to paint them, you will need to scuff them
> the best you can, and then primer them so the paint will
> adhere.
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
RV-9A-unsubscribe@egroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Author: "Robert Scott" <rscott@...> Time: Fri Aug 8, 2003 1:48 pm PDT Link
It's not the that the anodizing needs to harden, it's the fact that it is free from contamination right after the process. The process of anodizing not only helps prevent corrosion but helps with the bonding of the primer. No need to scuff. Scuffing would introduce contamination.
----- Original Message -----
From: Newsted, Gary
To: RV-9A@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, August 08, 2003 11:09 AM
Subject: RE: [RV-9A] Re: Anodizing ribs
No really, unless you are just interested in protecting the back and edges of the part while intending to paint the top of it. The info from Boeing says you can prime over anodizing within 48 hours. That's news to me. I thought anodizing was hard as soon as it was done. Etching primer will stick to just about anything if you can scuff it up good. Anodizing is hard to scuff, but it can be done. Alodine is similar in that you still want to scuff before priming over it, but it is not hard at all.
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Pack [mailto:jpack@i...]
Sent: Friday, August 08, 2003 11:03 AM
To: RV-9A@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [RV-9A] Re: Anodizing ribs
That being the case, is there any value in anodizing a part you will scuff,
prime and then paint? Will the scuffing eliminate the benefit of anodizing?
- Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Newsted, Gary" <Gary.Newsted@h...>
To: <RV-9A@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, August 08, 2003 8:51 AM
Subject: RE: [RV-9A] Re: Anodizing ribs
> You don't need to prime anything which is annodized.
> My comment about primer was that you don't want to
> anodize parts which will be topcoated with your finish
> paint (i.e. the outer skins). If some of your brackets
> such as the RV-9 flap hinge brackets, are anodized and
> you do want to paint them, you will need to scuff them
> the best you can, and then primer them so the paint will
> adhere.
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
RV-9A-unsubscribe@egroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
ADVERTISEMENT
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
RV-9A-unsubscribe@egroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Author: "Phil Perry" <philstar@...> Time: Fri Aug 8, 2003 10:20 pm PDT Link
Awesome Robert,
Thank you for going to the trouble to dig up that info. This answers many
questions I had just two days ago. I will print, laminate, and place this
great info in my tech files.
Phil
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert Scott" <rscott@j...>
To: <RV-9A@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, August 08, 2003 11:53 AM
Subject: Re: [RV-9A] Re: Anodizing ribs
> Hey Phil,
>
> I pulled this right from Boeings DPS 4.50-36 Epoxy Coating system:
>
> DPS 4.50-36
> Rev. "AN"
> Page 6 of 22
> 4. REQUIREMENTS
>
> 4.1 Surface Preparation - Chemical surface treatment or plating, when
specified,
> shall have been accomplished per the requirements of the applicable Finish
> Specification or Engineering drawing. ( Such as Anodize or alodine )
> 4.1.1 Anodized parts have a maximum time limit of 48 hours to be primed
providing
> parts are clean, dry, and free of any contamination. If the 48 hour limit
is exceeded,
> parts shall be stripped and reprocessed.
>
> 5.4.2 Detail Parts
>
> 5.4.2.1 Parts are not to be exposed outside of the building during the
surface
> treatment or plating process unless parts are kept dry, clean, and free of
contamination
> by wrapping with Kraft paper or equivalent.
> 5.4.2.2 Anodized parts have a maximum time limit of 48 hours to be primed
> providing parts are clean, dry, and free of any contamination. If the 48
hour limit is
> exceeded, parts are to be stripped and reprocessed. See paragraph 4.1.1.
> 5.4.2.3 Any surface treated or plated parts must be solvent cleaned per
paragraph
> 5.4.1 if any of the following conditions apply before the application of
the primer:
> 5.4.2.3.1 Parts remain unprimed for more than 24 hours.
> 5.4.2.3.2 Parts are visibly contaminated with light soiling, fingerprints,
etc. For
> contamination of greater severity, refer to paragraph 5.4.2.4.
> NOTE: Solvent cleaning is not required prior to priming if parts are kept
> clean, dry and free of contamination by wrapping with Kraft paper or
> equivalent within 24 hours after surface treatment.
> 5.4.2.4 Strip and reprocess any surface treatment prior to priming if
parts are
> corroded or obviously contaminated (e.g. Skydrol, oil, grease, anodize
powder or foreign material).
>
> Hope this sheds some light on the subject.
>
> Robert Scott
> Wings......
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Phil Perry
> To: RV-9A@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Thursday, August 07, 2003 8:38 PM
> Subject: Re: [RV-9A] Re: Anodizing ribs
> Robert,
> What do you do after anodizing to prep for priming? And do you have to
prime
> soon after anodizing? And finally, will the Dupont 2 part self etching
> primer I used on the emp work?
>
> Thanks a bunch Robert
>
> Phil
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Robert Scott" <rscott@j...>
> To: <RV-9A@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Thursday, August 07, 2003 1:07 PM
> Subject: Re: [RV-9A] Re: Anodizing ribs
> > We manufacture parts for Boeing 717 and C17. Every aluminum part we
make
> for them gets Anodized, FR primed ( 2 part epoxy primer green in color)
and
> if it's outside the aircraft such as the flap areas, wheel wells and
etc.,
> they get a 2 part epoxy topcoat usually gray in color.
> >
> > Robert Scott
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Bob Kelly
> > To: RV-9A@yahoogroups.com
> > Sent: Thursday, August 07, 2003 9:32 AM
> > Subject: [RV-9A] Re: Anodizing ribs
> > Phil,
> >
> > I have an airframe that is almost twenty years old and completely
> anodized!
> > My old Phantom u/l shows just how good anodizing stands up; it is
still
> in
> > great shape. I do a little anodizing from time to time and like the
> > process and result. Just make sure you have everything done
(deburring,
> > dimpling, etc) first as anodizing has a VERY hard surface that is
hard
> on
> > tools. Also, I don't know how you would paint over it as I have
never
> > tried. I do know that you can't really scuff the surface as it is
too
> > hard. If you plan on topcoating, I would do some experiments first.
> The
> > easy way is to use a colored dye if you don't like the natural
aluminum
> > look. Black looks great!
> >
> > Bob Kelly
> > > Gary,
> > > A friend of mine has started an anodizing business. In exchange
for
> > > electronic service he needs, he has offered to anodized all of my
wing
> > > ribs, (I am ready to shoot the Dupont self etching on and finish
the
> > > wings). His normal fee would be several hundred dollars. Would
this be
> > > better than priming? What is your (or anyone who is an expert in
> > > anodizing) opinion.
> > Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
> > ADVERTISEMENT
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > RV-9A-unsubscribe@egroups.com
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > RV-9A-unsubscribe@egroups.com
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
> ADVERTISEMENT
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> RV-9A-unsubscribe@egroups.com
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> RV-9A-unsubscribe@egroups.com
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/